In the vibrant 1e arrondissement of Paris, Sulvam unveiled its Autumn/Winter 2024 Menswear collection at the Paris Fashion Week, reinforcing its position in the international fashion scene with artful and playful improvisation. We interviewed the brand’s designer Teppei Fujita for more insights to his collection.
Sulvam: Where Improvisation Meets Everyday Elegance
Improvisation is a theme deeply embedded in the Japanese brand’s DNA. A concept that has consistently shaped each of the brand’s previous collections. The brand’s founder, Teppei Fujita shared insights into this recurring theme, emphasising, “Improvisation is really the running theme with every season. I draft the patterns freehand myself – it’s in the cuts. It’s in the finishings”
“Improvisation is really the running theme with every season. I draft the patterns freehand myself – it’s in the cuts. It’s in the finishings”
THE PRESENTATION
Forget the usual runway strut and spotlight glare. Here, Teppei’s vision danced to life not on a catwalk, but in the heart of the room. Models engaged in mundane yet captivating activities, from sipping coffee and playing chess to dancing and interacting with a vinyl player, blurring the lines between audience and performance. It wasn’t just a presentation as one would expect, it was a conversation whispered in fabric and laughter, a living, breathing embodiment of Teppei’s vision: “Clothing is for wearing, for living in. I wanted to create something that reflects everyday life.”
“Clothing is for wearing, for living in. I wanted to create something that reflects everyday life.”
Pedro, one of the guests said “what I love most about this presentation is that it is open and interactive. How the models are interacting with the music and with us, stopping when the music stops. It really brings the clothes to life. It’s so Inspiring.” Michael , another guest said “I really love the live models, it really reflects everyday life and being able to talk to Teppei and hear his message for this collection is really great.”
THE DESIGN ELEMENTS
In this collection, Sulvam’s identity is expressed through sophisticated suiting and an overall sense of spontaneity. The collection embodies an artful approach to deconstruction and meticulous design elements that achieve a captivating and cohesive aesthetic
Teppei, who is originally a pattern cutter and who was in fact a pattern cutter at Yohji Yamamoto for 7 years before setting out to establish his brand in 2013 relies on his mastery of garment construction in the realisation of his precisely-tailored styles, which are then subjected to a course of selective destruction encompassing frayed edges, asymmetric hems, exaggerated pocket details, and artfully imperfect seams.
Explaining his approach, Fujita said, “Once I make the pattern perfectly, then I begin to destroy it. A designer must be able to make perfect things first, then you can play with it.”
“Once I make the pattern perfectly, then I begin to destroy it. A designer must be able to make perfect things first, then you can play with it.”
THE FABRICS
The collection mainly features fabrics produced in Japan’s renowned wool manufacturing region, Bishu: herringbone, tweed, and melton specifically made for Sulvam. For the first time ever Teppei fused gabardine and lace in a collection. He said, “It was my first time fusing gabardine and lace. Lace is usually seen as feminine and sexy, so infusing that into menswear was very interesting.”
“It was my first time fusing gabardine and lace. Lace is usually seen as feminine and sexy, so infusing that into menswear was very interesting.”
On a final note, addressing aspiring designers, Teppei Fujita said, “You would never know unless you try. From my experience, I really have just been trying,” he shared. Sulvam operates as a small team of three individuals, with no interns, “That’s why I think I’m in the best position to tell you to try,” he concluded.
“You would never know unless you try. From my experience, I really have just been trying. That’s why I think I’m in the best position to tell you to try,”
Overall, Teppei Fujita’s meticulously crafted collection showcased a thoughtful and deliberate perspective, evident in the intricate details, artfully unfinished seams, and skilful deconstruction elements. The intentional use of burgundy added a unique touch. With this collection, Fujita further solidifies his position in the vibrant landscape of the Paris Fashion Scene.
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THE COLLECTION
