Fashion Fam, step into the realm of Issey Miyake, where fashion transcends mere clothing and becomes a living, breathing work of art. This season’s Issey Miyake A/W 2025 collection, “[N]either [N]or,” presented at the Carrousel du Louvre, was a mesmerizing exploration of ambiguity, a dance between 2D and 3D, and a celebration of the human form as sculpture. And as a fashion editor who thrives on the avant-garde, I was utterly captivated.
Issey Miyake A/W 2025: When Art Meets Garment – And Reality Blurs
Issey Miyake has always been a pioneer, blurring the lines between art and fashion. This collection, inspired by the work of Austrian artist Erwin Wurm, takes that vision to new heights. Wurm’s ability to transform familiar objects into something extraordinary resonates deeply with Miyake’s design philosophy. The brand excels at keeping art and fashion together by creating pieces that are not only beautiful but also thought-provoking.
Issey Miyake A/W 2025:: Where Art and Fashion Collide
The ambiguity of the many in-between’s offers the freedom of wearing one’s own way and the excitement of all the possibilities that are yet to be discovered within the garments.” – Issey Miyake Show Notes
This season, the brand explored the concept of “[N]either [N]or,” a state of in-between, where binaries dissolve, and new possibilities emerge. The use of still-life photographs of KNIT (AS IT IS) as prints on clothing created a stunning optical illusion, blurring the lines between 2D and 3D.
Sculptural Garments: Body as Canvas
The organic forms created through intricate knit structures felt like wearable sculptures, emphasizing the fluid relationship between the body and the garment. The “LIKE TORSO LIKE SHIRT” and “LIKE TORSO LIKE BLAZER” series, crafted from washi paper yarn, exemplified this sculptural approach.
Paper Bags and Accordion Folds: The Extraordinary Ordinary
The transformation of a paper bag into a garment was a stroke of genius, highlighting the brand’s ability to make the ordinary extraordinary. The bi-tubular construction, formed by accordion folds, created sculptural silhouettes that were both firm and supple.
Pleats and Distortions: Challenging Perceptions
The distortion of stripe patterns through machine and hand pleating, layered with sheer fabrics, created an optical illusion that challenged viewers’ preconceptions. The blending of wool/alpaca yarn with thermoplastic fibers, resulting in knitwear with crisp edges and a slight sheen, further explored the interplay between rigidity and softness.
CAMPER × ISSEY MIYAKE: A New Partnership
The collaboration with Camper, resulting in the “Peu Form” shoe, was a testament to the brand’s commitment to innovation and functionality. Designed by Satoshi Kondo, the shoe’s unstructured form, crafted from a single piece of leather, celebrated the synergy between craftsmanship and the human body.
Erwin Wurm’s Influence: A Living Art Installation
The presentation’s scenography, featuring Erwin Wurm’s “One Minute Sculptures” activated by performers, resonated with Issey Miyake’s approach to design and the relationship between clothing and the human body.
Key Theme: Ambiguity, wearable art, the blurring of 2D and 3D, sculptural forms.
Issey Miyake’s A/W 2025 collection was a masterclass in pushing the boundaries of fashion. It was a journey into the realm of wearable art, where the ordinary was transformed into the extraordinary. The brand’s ability to blend art, technology, and craftsmanship resulted in a collection that was both thought-provoking and visually stunning. And darling readers, isn’t that the essence of true innovation?
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Charlotte Smith is the founder of Style Cartel, a platform dedicated to creating engaging digital content and securing impactful editorial coverage for brands and POCs like herself. With a background in Fashion, digital marketing, or brand strategy, Charlotte brings a wealth of experience in connecting brands with their audiences. She is passionate about showcasing brands with unique stories and values and helping them amplify their reach through compelling content. Charlotte believes that there is a seat at the table for everyone and holds the elevator door open so we all can go to the penthouse suite.
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