Spotted: At Paris’s Galerie de Géologie et de Minéralogie, a dark and glamorous gathering. Alexander McQueen’s A/W 2025 show, where witchy heroines and gothic glamour reigned supreme. Seán McGirr invited us to the dark side, and darling readers, we gladly accepted. With Chappell Roan and Maisie Williams in attendance, the scene was set for a night of high drama and high fashion and Charles Dickens’s Night Walks.
“‘Know thyself’ was written over the portal of the antique world.
Over the portal of the new world, ‘Be thyself’ shall be written.”
— Oscar Wilde, 1891
Alexander McQueen A/W 2025: Welcome to the Dark Side, Darling
Seán McGirr’s vision for Alexander McQueen is a captivating blend of dark romance and rebellious spirit. This season, he conjured a heroine who is both powerful and vulnerable, a witchy enchantress with a penchant for gothic glamour. The brand continues to keep art and fashion together by creating theatrical pieces that are wearable works of art.
“To me, dandyism is the ultimate act of adornment; deeply personal, playful and
transgressive. It raises questions of character and identity, idealism and gender. I wanted
to explore the enduring relevance of the dandy’s radical spirit in our modern world.”
— Seán McGirr, Creative Director
McQueen’s Dark Romanticism: A New Chapter
“That meant high-collared Crimson Peak gowns with exaggerated shoulders and wasp waists, lace overlays, corset belts, and bejeweled leather.”
The collection was a masterclass in gothic elegance, with high-collared gowns, exaggerated shoulders, and wasp waists creating a dramatic silhouette. Lace overlays, corset belts, and bejewelled leather added a touch of decadent luxury. The tension between spectacle and concealment. Gold bullion embroidered cloaks and crystalline masks, glimmering in the dark. Black sculpted hats by Philip Treacy, angular and obscuring.
The Skull Print Returns: An Iconic Legacy
The iconic skull print, a signature of the house’s DNA, made a triumphant return, splashed across blouses and scarves. It’s a testament to the enduring legacy of Lee Alexander McQueen, whose rebellious spirit continues to inspire the brand. Irreverent artistry.
Technical performance fabrics clashed with opulent heirloom jewels.
Tailcoat parkas with mirrored facets, reflecting the electricity of London.
A Color Palette of Darkness and Drama
While the show began with classic all-black looks, it quickly transitioned into a more colourful palette. Blood-red, magenta, and lavender gowns, adorned with ruffles and feathers, added a touch of theatrical drama.
Accessories: The Devil’s in the Details
Hats – Philip Treacy for McQueen.
Masks – Matthew Empringham and Frederic Coomes for McQueen.
JEWELLERY: Victorian naturalism and Oscar Wilde-inspired motifs — crystal-encrusted sunflowers and sharp faceted jewellery.
SHOES: The Corvax boots, mules and Oxfords — elongated laced and buckled shoes, sharpened to a fine point. Black, crimson, ivory, silver, patent black and patent fuchsia leather, and black, crimson and fuchsia lace.
BAGS: The Farringdon – supple leather with McQueen harness detail in black leather, oxblood leather and oxblood suede. The T-Bar Sling bag — sculptural cross-body with polished T-Bar buckle. The Drop bag — is spherical with a hardened exterior; metal with crystal mirror embroidery and a pearlescent finish.
McGirr’s attention to detail was evident in the accessories. Pointy Keith Richards boots, silver cord-dripped rings and earrings, and egg-shaped bags added a touch of rock-and-roll edge. Crystal-embroidered masks, created in collaboration with Freddy Coomes and Matt Empringham, added a touch of otherworldly glamour.
Celebrities and Style Icons: McQueen’s Muse
Chappell Roan, with her no-holds-barred style, embodies the McQueen heroine. Maisie Williams, known for her edgy fashion choices, also graced the show. Expect to see these celebrities, along with others who embrace a dark and romantic aesthetic, sporting these looks.
Key Theme: Gothic romance, witchy glamour, rebellious elegance.
Key Silhouettes: High-collared gowns, exaggerated shoulders, wasp waists, ruffled shirts, textured knits.
Key Accessories: Pointy Keith Richards boots, silver cord jewellery, egg-shaped bags, crystal-embroidered masks, lace tights with floral cutouts.
Beauty Trends: Crimped, flyaway hair, dark and dramatic eye makeup, a touch of gothic glamour.
Runway Trends: Gothic influences, dark romanticism, exaggerated silhouettes, theatrical accessories.
Seán McGirr’s Alexander McQueen A/W 2025 collection was a captivating exploration of dark romance and gothic glamour. It was a celebration of the brand’s rebellious spirit and a testament to its enduring legacy. Darling readers, prepare to embrace your inner witchy heroine and step into the dark side.
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Photos: Alexander McQueen
