What We Think of Phoebe Philo’s New Collection

We at Style Cartel have been waiting for Phoebe Philo’s New Collection ever since a little bird told us almost a year ago she set up her HQ in Notting Hill, London. The most predicted collection of 2023 was finally unveiled to the press with done-on-one appointments in a bright, airy London showroom, with clothes hung on racks and jewellery and accessories displayed on tables. Do you want to know What We Think of Phoebe Philo’s New Collection?

Phoebe Philo’s New Collection

We are delighted that more female designers are starting their own labels. Phoebe Philo was not physically there, but her inimitable fashion handwriting was. The collection embodied her penchant for luxurious fabrics and impeccable make, unexpected flourishes via volume or texture, and womanly silhouettes with a modernist touch. The mum, or mother necklace, is currently breaking the internet. However, only women who are married to finance guys can afford it. 

We categorize the collection as quiet luxury. The colours for the collection are black, white, olive and oxblood, and prints were almost nonexistent. Very gallery girlish with a twist of edgy detail. 

Regard the bondage straps hugging the knees of tailored pants, the zippers running all the way up the back of each pant leg of roomy, five-pocket mom jeans, or the sleeves of oversized sweaters and tailored jackets ironed hard so they’ll keep their creases.

Philo’s double-breasted suits, based on menswear, were gorgeous. The demonstrative shoulders were pitched forward, and the waists notched like an hourglass. Her short, lopsided scarf-like dress in soft, heavy satin sheltered a built-in bodysuit.

What We Think

Sillhuotetes were mainly dressy, roomy and polished, with a few outliers, including four-way stretch leggings with an ombre wave pattern on the outer thighs and a red ski sweater streaked with bold graphics.

There were mouth-dropping looks, too, such as leather tote bags big enough for a microwave; bodysuits, bondage belts and swimwear studded with gleaming, metallic orbs, and a series of coats, bias-cut dresses and satin trousers awash in dense, thread-like embroideries.

Philo’s first designs under her new signature brand, which she’s been incubating for over three years, covered the gamut of categories, spanning ready-to-wear, footwear, handbags, jewellery and eyewear.

The jewellery was a standout and included a chunky necklace with the repeating word “Mum” in 23-karat gold, a reference to motherhood (Philo has three children) — or perhaps to the quiet maturation of this collection.

A flexible gold cuff and rectangular ring had ancient Egyptian flair, while a pair of dangly earrings made from tiles had an Art Deco edge. Sunglasses, oversize, black and square-ish, were meant for maximum coverage.

The British designer considers this her debut “edit,” and the first of its three deliveries are available for purchase exclusively on her website. We feel this was a homage to the ghetto girl who upgraded herself.

Canadian model Daria Werbowy, a Philo favourite, makes a comeback, too. Yet plenty is new in the fashion house she’s building. She plans to make it as sustainable as possible, headlined by quantities calibrated to fall short of demand and eliminate overproduction — perhaps the biggest blight of the fashion industry.

“As part of our determination to address overall environmental impact, we focus on the material issues of overconsumption, waste and the fashion supply chain. Our aim is to create a product that reflects permanence,” the fashion house said in a brief statement of bullet points.

“The Phoebe Philo business model is designed to create a responsible balance between production and demand. For us, this means producing notably less than anticipated want,” it added.

Her Instagram account, which currently has no posts, boasts 287,000 followers, and it is understood that legions of potential customers have registered at phoebephilo.com to receive updates, the first of which was to reveal the Oct. 30 release of the first edit, dubbed A1.

It comprises 150 styles, with the first of three deliveries being the most significant in size. The second edit, A2, will arrive in spring 2024.

Retail prices for A1 range from $1,400 to $2,400 for trousers, $2,200 to $8,500 for dresses, $3,600 to $4,800 for knits, $3,600 to $4,500 for tailored jackets; $6,900 to $12,000 for leather jackets, and $16,500 to $25,000 for shearling jackets. Shoes run from $1,100 to $1,750, and handbags from $3,500 to $8,500.

Most of the collection is manufactured in Italy. Initially, Philo’s online store will ship to addresses in the U.K., Europe and the U.S. Currently, only the extremely rich can afford the pieces. The masses will have to wait for Zara to rip it off. Meaning most of her faithful fans cannot afford it. Yet, she has nailed a mature womens style who is a 90’s baby. A rich girls romp slumming it. Very West London meets the Lower East Side of New York. We know that women very well we are her.

Hot or Not?Do you desire more Philo’ in your life? Will you be wearing the real thing or a dupe? We are just praying for an invite to the sample sale. LOL

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Photo’s Phoebe Philo

Charlotte Smith

Editor & Chief

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