The Stéphane Rolland Couture Spring 2023 Runway Report takes us to the seashores of Brazil. The designer showed a favourably sculptural collection this season—a Brazilian beach vibe paired with priestess attire. In addition, attendees were treated to a cinematic opening to set the tone for the Paris Fashion Week Haute Couture dèfile.
Stéphane Rolland showed a robust and sculptural spring collection rooted in Brazil. He long had loved Marcel Camus’ film “Black Orpheus,” from 1959, which riffs on the Greek legend of Orpheus and Eurydice. For many of us, it took us back to our childhood and dreamed of the sun in Brazil and young summer love.
Stéphane Rolland Haute Couture Spring 2023
“I started to build the story in three parts. The first is Rio in the ’70s — architecture, the modernity of the structure,” said Rolland, explaining the second section refers to Brazil’s Amazonian roots and the Indigenous people from the rainforest. “There are sculptures on the dresses in lacquered form, solid form, and many new techniques exist. Everything is 3D, and it’s solid.”
The third part refers to Brazil’s history — the conquistadors and their gold and other treasures. The sumptuousness of the church in Bahia inspired Rolland, as well.
“I wanted the final part of the show to be rich but [also] modern and sexy,” he continued.
Stéphane Rolland Runway Report
Silhouettes were often sculptural. The opening look was an asymmetric, long dress, in white iridescent voile, with an egg-shaped sculpture made of white jersey perched atop the left shoulder.
The mini “sambadrome” dress was made in black gazar, flared in waves around the waist and chest, swelled up over a shoulder and around the back, flowerlike in its movement.
“I can sculpt the gazar like a stone,” Rolland said.
The long, formfitting coffee brown dress in jersey and gazar came with graphic embroidery created out of lacquer and white jersey.
The last look, a voluminous wedding dress of golden cloqué lamé, was embellished on the front, bottom and hood with golden arched sculptures. In making the garment, Rolland had in mind a gilded Madonna sculpture called Our Lady of Aparecida.
He created large jewellery pieces, such as bracelets and earrings, in metal, sculpted wood and gemstones — including emeralds, jade and malachite — that were worn with many looks.
“Every single detail is very precious,” Rolland said.
It was a fantastic runway show to watch. What do you think? Follow us on TikTok & stay updated on everything happening in Fashion. Check out the best collaborations to add to your rotation this week, follow @stylecartel on Instagram, and sign up for our newsletter for early access to the best drops sent straight to your inbox.
Photo Credit: Stéphane Rolland