We’re bringing sexy back.
For what feels like an eternity, fashion has been obsessed with being quiet luxury minimalism. Clean, tailored, muted palettes, slicked-back hair, barely-there makeup, quiet luxury the kind of dressing that looked expensive precisely because it never tried too hard. As someone who dives into minimal fashion because it is practical, I do long for fun, sexy, and a little less predictable.
But at New York Fashion Week, the mood is shifting.
New York Spring/Summer 2027 is about dressing for fun again.
The runways brought an appetite for bold color, texture, movement and clothes that don’t simply blend into the wardrobe. There was texture in all its iterations, skin-baring cutouts, flattering silhouettes, and unexpected combinations of fabrics and finishes. If the clean girl wanted everything perfectly coordinated, her SS27 successor seems considerably less interested in following the rules.
Vogue has already called time on the “clean girl” aesthetic, forecasting a season of maximalist styling, colour clashes, romance and playful self-expression. And looking at the wider fashion mood, it’s easy to see why. After years of pared-back dressing, there’s only so long we can pretend another beige blazer is going to change our lives. Vogue: “Bye Bye Clean Girl: 6 Trend Predictions for Spring/Summer 2027”
Bold Colour
The antidote to beige.
SS27 is saturated. Red continues to dominate, while lime green has emerged as one of the season’s more unexpected additions. Michael Kors played with bold colour blocking, Sergio Hudson made a case for vibrant pink, and Tory Burch brought a softer, almost unexpected take on orange. Prabal Gurung made a particularly strong case for the shade, draping a vivid lime green dress over a contrasting black silhouette, creating a look that felt both dramatic and effortless.
But this isn’t necessarily about abandoning minimalism altogether. Colour can still be used sparingly, as one statement against an otherwise pared back look. Think quiet luxury with a little more oomph. And for those willing to go further, mixing unexpected shades together feels increasingly natural. The idea that everything needs to coordinate is starting to feel a little dated.
Animal Print
The new neutral.
Animal print is getting a personality upgrade for SS27. Leopard and cheetah are still around, but zebra is arriving in unexpected colourways, while LaQuan Smith introduced deer inspired prints. What feels different is how wearable it suddenly looks. Once considered a little too loud, animal print is being pulled off the runway and into the everyday wardrobe. Cult Gaia‘s ruffled leopard dress feels sexy and playful, while Proenza Schouler‘s coat could easily become an everyday staple. Diane von Furstenberg also made her return to the New York runway after nearly a decade, with Henry Zankov stepping in as the house’s new creative force. I loved seeing him bring the spirit of DVF back to life while still making it feel fresh, playful and very now.
And perhaps that’s the appeal. A simple wardrobe doesn’t have to mean a boring one. A statement coat, dress or jacket can be styled with otherwise minimal pieces and suddenly feel completely personal. The new neutral doesn’t necessarily have to be beige.
Floral
Romantic, but not delicate.
Florals have always belonged to spring, but SS27 is giving them a different attitude. Less whimsical and more romantic, edgy and artistic, designers are working flowers into lace, mesh, embroidery and darker silhouettes. Carolina Herrera paired florals with lace, while Khaite‘s sheer floral skirt felt simultaneously sexy, feminine and slightly undone. PatBO went in a lighter direction with an airy blue embroidery floral dress, while Anna Sui brought florals into a darker, almost rock and roll world.
The flower is still romantic, but it no longer needs to be delicate. This season, it feels playful, confident and made for a woman who wants her femininity with a little more attitude.
Texture
Fashion is getting tactile.
Texture has always had a place in fashion, but this season it is taking over the garment itself. Bibhu Mohapatra took a theatrical turn. Inspired by the eccentric Marchesa Luisa Casati, he played with texture through an exaggerated feathered hem, transforming an otherwise polished blush pink skirt suit into something theatrical and playful.At Area, sequinned fringe became the entire look, while Monse transformed a blazer dress with a fringe skirt that seemed to melt as it moved. Palomo brought texture to the runway through feathered details, inspired by what the brand described as “the darkness of the garden just before dawn.” The result was sensual, slightly mysterious and beautifully tactile, capturing the collection’s celebration of freedom, sensuality and beauty.
And that’s what makes it so seductive. The clothes move with you. Every step creates something different, almost synchronized with the body. There is something inherently sexy about that kind of movement. For SS27, texture isn’t simply decoration.
It moves, it performs, and it becomes part of the way you wear the clothes.
Stay in the know. Follow StyleCartel for what’s next in fashion, culture and style.
