The walk of the denim Zombie apocalyptic Runway Report Diesel SPRING 2025 Milan Fashion Week. Where Denim zombies meet hippy chic Avengers, a more mature collection from Glenn Martens hit the runway during Milan Fashion Week.
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Runway Report: Diesel SPRING 2025
It was like landing on Planet Denim at Diesel, where models with Zombie-like coloured contact lenses walked a vast catwalk covered in roughly 15,000 kilograms of denim scraps and deadstock, shredded to form a textured carpeting.
The striking set-up—flanked by a voiceover giving a lecture on the fabric, its origins, and its indissoluble bond with the brand—was intended to loudly restate Diesel’s DNA and circularity efforts (the set itself will be reused and repurposed).
The creative director Glenn Martens, has focused on improving the company’s sustainable practices by using regenerative and recycled denim and introducing the Library line since he joined Diesel in 2020. For spring 2025, Martens again focused on dignifying waste and revealing the beauty in what’s distressed and destroyed.
It was a renaissance for the creative director and a coming-of-age collection. Martens included artisanal pieces made from leftover denim threads — like a cropped jacket and a coat reprising the shredded effect of the set, crafted from scraps from Diesel’s denim production, as seen in a floor-skimming monk’s coat.
Diesel SPRING 2025 Milan Fashion Week
The silhouettes of the collection were denim-centric and worked with different techniques, from weaving lengthy fringes into denim to magnify its worn-out appearance to recreating whiskers via embossed details. The same flair for optical illusion ran throughout, with denim overdyed or sprayed to look like leather or camel fabric in sculptural cutout minidresses and outerwear, respectively; leather jackets treated to resemble denim instead, and body-hugging knitted gowns lasered into a distressed appearance.
The stand-out pieces were a series of sleek dresses and tailored pieces with Prince of Wales patterns printed on PVC and extra-long fringing wrapped around the neck. Some jersey-knotted frocks and tops closed the show and reworked Diesel vintage scarves and archival prints for a trompe l’oeil effect. Diesel is bringing denim back in a big way.
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