I am ecstatic that more fashion people are living in the moment. Khaite Fall Winter 2024 Runway Report is the interpretation of How the Darkness Comes to Light. Those emotions are interwoven into Cate Holstein’s collection of memories and living in the moment esthetic. Many of us are still wondering why we are still here working in Fashion.
Khaite Fall Winter 2024 Runway Report:
Self-reflection may be one of the most significant movements of New York Fashion Week. The number of designers mentioned looking inward, self-care, taking stock of what’s essential, and realigning their definition of success is remarkable.
Khaite Fall Winter 2024: The Darkness Comes to Ligh
Khaite is undoubtedly one of New York fashion’s recent success stories, helmed by two-time CFDA Women’s Designer of the Year winner Cate Holstein, who has created a powerful brand mystique, riding a wave of pricey hit accessories and closet staples tweaked season after season to become a retailer sweetheart. Plus, she secured financial backers and opened two of her stores.
Undoubtedly, part of that is the near Sisyphean path to success faced by today’s independent fashion brands. Puppets & Puppets founder Carly Mark, the creator of the hit cookie bag, told The New York Times earlier this week that she can no longer sell clothes in New York and is moving to London to focus solely on accessories; it’s a hard knock life for emerging Designers. Mental health awareness is on the rise, particularly among Gen Z, whom studies have shown support brands that support wellbeing.
For fall 2024, however, even Holstein was about self-reflection–quite literally, as it happens, staging her runway show in a black box of space on Pier 61, with a mirrored shiny runway that reflected the models in it as they walked.
“It’s something I think that’s on everybody’s mind,” Holstein said backstage of looking within, which for her was to youthful thoughts of her sophisticated mother (“she put lipstick on the moment she woke up, she kept it on her bedside table”), and trying to live more in the moment–even when things go wrong–since the birth of her child.
Those beliefs were woven into the clothing in hauntingly beautiful silk gazar sleeveless tops, long rippling skirts, and goddess-like gowns draped on the body, capturing a moment in time, and finished with long opera gloves.
“This was a full dress that as the model was lifting it, and we were doing her shoes, I was like, ‘Don’t move,’ and we came in and pinned and reworked it,” Holstein explained of a glossy black gown.
The designer paraded out a stream of new takes on her brand mainstays: sculptural leather coats with big, bold, rounded shoulders in super cropped and swingy silhouettes or elongated and bubbled-out hems. There were new paper bag waist skirts and pants to go along with boxy tailoring, luscious faux furs (some in lipstick red for her mama), scarify silk prints and sheer chiffon whisper-thin gowns that floated down the runway like a memory.
The statement was in the power of susceptibility, which is Khaite’s way.
“I’ve had some major life changes in the last year, and I have entered a point in my life of actual calm and happiness,” the designer said, proving that everyone’s life, no matter how rosy it may seem, is its journey. “Sitting with happiness, it’s funny; it’s harder than misery, in a way. It can be a bit scary. So I’m trying to train myself to sit in happiness.”
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COLLECTION CREDITS:
CREATIVE DIRECTION: CATHERINE HOLSTEIN
STYLING: VANESSA TRAINA
CASTING: PIERGIORGIO DEL MORO AT DM CASTING
HAIR: GUIDO
MAKEUP: DIANE KENDAL FOR NARS
NAILS: DAWN STERLING FOR ESSIE SKIN
PREP: MACRENE ACTIVES
SHOW DESIGN: GRIFFIN FRAZEN
SHOW DIRECTION AND PRODUCTION: PRODJECT
PHOTOGRAPHER AND VIDEO DIRECTOR: HANNA TVEITE
MUSIC: JEAN MICHEL DERAIN
COLLECTION SERVICES: RAE CREATIVE
Photo CREDITS: Khaite CREDIT: HANNA TVEITE
