Creative Director Glenn Martens is making Diesel an it brand again with the new life he is giving the denim powerhouse brand. The Diesel democracy: denim, utility, pop and play, debuting in front of an audience of nearly 5,000. During these fashion weeks, brands are opening up to the public to be more inclusive. Experimentation for everybody, the inclusive energy; this 21st century Diesel reboot has only just begun. It’s a show that breaks a Guinness World Record: the world’s most giant ever inflatable sculpture is the runway’s heart.
DIESEL SPRING SUMMER 2023
“I wanted to open Diesel up to the public, for people who may never have been to a fashion show before. They deserve a spectacle, so we’ve broken the record for the biggest inflatable sculpture in the world. It’s what I believe about the fashion and the state of mind – everybody can be part of Diesel,” says Glenn Martens, creative director of Diesel.
Democratic fashion is everything, with experimentation and subversion every single day. Denim devoré is created by weaving denim onto a transparent base, like the devoré corset waist of low-slung denim pants. The effect is also made with denim knits, while part-solarised denim is like it’s been left out in years of the hot summer sun.
Denim is roughly embroidered with a layer of tulle that’s then torn, while totally distressed denim is held by stitching lines and a sheer lining to bring control to the destruction.
There’s also denim bonded with a layer of cotton, then acid-washed, revealing the denim. Scans of distressed denim have been taken to create second-skin trompe-l’oeil prints, while many pieces throughout the collection are trimmed with raw denim for pure Diesel energy.
Utility pants with supersized pockets are solarised for attitude, satin cargo pants are future perfect, and little fluid tops are held by wide utility belts. Nylon utility jackets and flying pants have cotton layers that are cut away; dresses and pants are made from organza layers, cut open; double-layer printed T-shirts have smiley holes cut into the top layer to reveal the print beneath.
Acid floral slip dresses are trimmed with lace, as are tank minidresses with frills at the neck and arm. Graphic knits are coated and then cracked open, like metallic pop dresses or sleeveless vests fastened by hook-and-eye. Plasticised denim is waterproofed like jelly, creases left intentionally undyed, and metallic printed coats are like a city reflected in chrome.
Bonded leather jackets are cut with raw edges. Diesel Library denim pieces are connected and encased in layers of rough-cut denim. Artisanal denim pieces are cut and distressed as if the denim is turning into fur; an artisanal coat is made entirely from over 15,000 distressed and brushed Diesel labels.
Slip-on denim heels have utility pockets to make going out easy. Strappy sandals have sporty soles, patent boots are finished with a metallic D. Men’s flip-flops are moulded, while Prototype sneakers are cut open for summer. 1DR bags are medium or micro, while D-vina bags are tricked out with sparkling charms or reimagined with a moulded D.
This season’s Diesel spoke to the kids living in urban landscapes, playing video games and collecting NFTs. The collection is for the Web 3 generation, and we are here for it.
– Also attending are NFT collectors, who received a free ticket to purchase their AW22 runway NFTs.
– Every single guest to the show will receive a commemorative NFT.
Creative Director: Glenn Martens
Styling: Ursina Gysi
Concept Design: Studio Dennis Vanderbroeck
Hair: Cyndia Harvey
Make-up: Inge Grognard
Beauty partner: Wella
Casting Director: Anita Bitton
Music Director: Senjan Jasnsen
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