WOOYOUNGMI SS23 runway show stayed true to the brand identity. Chic tailored suits that are gender-fluid styles. With a little streetwear edge. This year marks two decades since Woo Young Mi created her eponymous brand and staged its inaugural show in Paris. And while the Wooyoungmi Spring-Summer 2023 collection is not an anniversary exercise per se.
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The breath of history imbues its character through a contemporary lens. Infused with the implied atmosphere of an auction, the grand gallery of Les Arts Décoratifs frames a new expression for Wooyoungmi founded in the memories of its earliest incarnations.
On the Wooyoungmi runway, the idea unfolds with a delicate approach cultivated through an aesthetic twenty years in the making. The silhouettes amplifie the DNA of the brand’s early work. An ode to boyish contrast between volumes. Very skin-tight as if outgrown or very generous .
As if made to grow into, which inevitably evokes the dress codes of the late-1990s skateboarding community. Interpreted in workwear as well as tailoring. It’s a wardrobe shared between men and women: scaled up and down for fit.
PARIS FASHION WEEK RUNWAY REPORT
Tailored suits and outerwear created in cotton-mixed hemp and cotton-poly blends. In colours of the heritage men’s wardrobe: black, navy, brown and beige. It is contrasted by sheer underpinnings in artificial pastels also echoed in knitwear: royal blue, frog green, chocolate brown. To shocking pink and digital lavender.
Workwear is crafted in cotton-poly blends and denim. While leather features throughout the wardrobe. Sportswear is treated as tailoring. With a teenage approach to dressing: a wardrobe collaged from parental pass-me-downs, vintage store finds, and piggy bank blowouts.
WOOYOUNGMI SS23 RUNWAY REPORT
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Jewellery invokes the styling of the 90’s music video’s millennial heyday. With crystal necklaces, bracelets. The belly chains, are a big trend off the runway. Paired with chunky rings and ear cuffs, and rigid metal neck rings which nod at the idea of chokers.
Hammer pendants appear as a symbol of the collection’s poetic auction motifs. Belts are crafted in leather or crystal. Shoes draw on the grammar of teenage activities and skatepark culture: platform loafers and stompy boots, formal platform slides, and sneakers hybridised with the properties of bowling shoes. Shoppers, briefcases, handbags, mini handbags and clutches evoke an adolescent approach to repurposing the bags of our grandparents. And Man-bags are trending too.
The designer is paying attention to the trends by creating sillouettes that an aray of people can wear to an Apocalyptic meeting. Or chilling with friends in a metaverse. Would you wear it? What are your favorite pieces?
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