MR. SATURDAY SPRING/SUMMER 2023 RUNWAY REPORT

Toronto-based designer brand Mr. Saturday presented their Spring/Summer 2023 collection titled “Sex & Politics: Shadow Play At Le Chat Noir”.  Helmed by 28-year-old designer & founder Joey Gollish, Mr Saturday is a brand rooted in exploring historical events and ephemera – focusing on nightlife and culture-shifting moments. A brand DNA like this is an emerging brand to watch also shows the Frankenstein sweater.  Read more..

MR. SATURDAY SPRING/SUMMER 2023

The Mr Saturday collection explores the history and lasting global impact of European cabaret, particularly Le Chat NoirEuropean cabaret’s history and lasting global impact.  Cabaret Voltaire, and other central figures in European Cabaret. While lounges Mare is commonly known as a platform for subversiveness and sexual liberation, it was also where political and cultural satire and commentary could freely flourish from the 1880s through the 1920s—an original haven and meeting place for the LGBTQ+ community. The collection explores this corner of culture during this specific era, depicted in the form of cat graphics which play on the cat & the frog/sex & politics reference. 

“Sex & Politics:

“Sex & Politics” features 38 ready-to-wear looks across both menswear and womenswear. Gollish mixes core brand styles & silhouettes reimagined for the Spring/Summer 2023.  This season the brand adds new ideas and avant-garde one-of-one show looks. The brand incorporates the concept of shadow play throughout the collection, with distinct fabric choices like sheer organza, poplin cotton, and loose merino knits. Shadow play is also seen more plainly in the graphic artwork, which appears & disappears across select pieces. 

Key ready-to-wear pieces include gently oversized, open-knit merino sweater top & bottom sets in checkerboard prints, an extra-sharp white padded leather moto jacket, a “boxer skirt” silhouette that plays on traditional boxer shorts, a cream wool bomber jacket with “Sex and Politics” themed cat graphics stitched along the back.   Along with a Silky-to-the-touch Tencel knit shirt and short sets in a range of neutral colourways. 

With pimped-out slick, black velvet, double-breasted suit jacket and matching pants. The more avant-garde show looks this season were hand-sewn or specially created to help tell the story around the subversiveness of the inspiration and collection. This includes leather harnesses and chaps, custom boxing gloves, jock straps printed with Mr Saturday’s classic “GOOD LUCK” slogan, and a camp-driven take on a traditional European ballgown with an exposed backside to illustrate the sexual liberation that cabaret culture has come to represent unabashedly. The house caught the  LGBTQ trend on the runways of Paris Fashion Week. 

“Sex & Politics Mr Saturday

Mr Saturday also continues to expand its accessories offerings. The brand debuts all-new styles across sunglasses and handbag categories this season. For sunglasses, Mr Saturday introduced a new technique, called the “Hugo”, featuring an oversized, rounded eye shape handcrafted with Italian acetate and named after Cabaret Voltaire’s founder Hugo Ball. New handbag styles were designed in collaboration with Canadian premium lifestyle brand Roots.

They included a black leather duffle bag with Mr Saturday’s classic “GOOD LUCK” slogan seen on embroidered patches, a black leather pouch style, and a beige weekender bag complete with hand-painted cat graphics Toronto artist Esther Liang. In addition to the handbags, Mr Saturday collaborated with Roots on its range of bomber jackets which feature premium leather sleeves. Another trend off the Paris runways is the Frankenstein sweater. 

Mr Saturday also teamed up with the social commerce platform Basic. Space to create a range of ready-to-wear apparel and homeware – complete with cat graphics & slogans that tie back to the collection’s themes. Available for guests to purchase at the “Sex & Politics” Paris afterparty and exclusively on Basic. Space’s website, the collaboration includes a hat, a heavyweight cotton t-shirt, a limited-edition, a made-to-order varsity jacket made in partnership with Roots, and a woven linen show napkin. 

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MR. SATURDAY Photo Credit: Gregoire Avenel 

Creative Direction: Joey Gollish

Styled by: Caitlan Hickey