Avant-garde is a term used to describe new, experimental movements in art, literature, or music. Birthed from political and industrial revolutions, this “radical” movement eventually trickled into fashion in the late 20th century, when Japanese designers such as Rei Kawakubo, Issey Miyake, and Yohji Yamamoto began rejecting traditional beauty and treating clothes as conceptual art.
Ultimately, what gets people talking is the surreal and innovative nature of the designers’ conceptual work. In Indonesia however, avant-garde fashion remains a niche but evolving movement, gaining curiosity, yet still facing skepticism.
One such voice contributing to this evolving movement is Viony Oktavia, an Indonesian designer behind VOP, who is helping define this creative frontier.
Through her work, she sees growing potential for avant-garde in Indonesia’s landscape to gain recognition, not just in fashion circles, but among artists, creatives, and fellow designers who blur the lines between fashion and art.
The Visionary Behind VOP: Viony Oktavia
Once a quiet student with a hidden love for fashion, Viony Oktavia began by posting sketches to her art account (@viony_o) which then grew into her current fashion label, VOP (@VOP.OV).
While studying fashion in Hong Kong, she battled self doubt in the competitive industry. It wasn’t until she participated in a shoe design competition that everything changed. Reaching the finals boosted her confidence, and seeing her concept come to life redefined the direction she aspires to lead in this world.
Now, through VOP, she creates with purpose: to inspire, quietly but powerfully.
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(V)iony (O)ktavia (P): From A Hidden Passion Into Flourishing Brand
VOP (@VOP.OV) is an avant-garde label with a surrealist edge, defined by innovative pattern manipulation and interactive design. VOP’s direction is shaped by the founder’s education in Hong Kong, a hub for streetwear and experimental fashion.
Each collection is birthed from curiosity, treating clothing as a canvas for exploration and self-expression.
The brand’s creative process starts simply: visualizing a garment on the body, then building it through experimentation with form and construction.
“Our early vision was to treat clothing as a customizable canvas, focusing on structure before the full look.”
Inside VOP’s Surrealistic World
Designing avant-garde fashion means pushing beyond the familiar and for Viony Oktavia, that starts in the surreal. Inspired by Salvador Dalí, she taps into dream like states, often sketching late into the night as ideas surface between sleep and awareness.
Ordinary objects that are reimagined through abstract silhouettes serves as the foundation of her designs. Through her label and social media (@vop.ov), Viony invites others into this imaginative world of hers where each post is a glimpse into the surreal energy behind her work.
Shaping The Unseen: VOP’s Vision For Indonesia
Shaping The Unseen: VOP’s Vision For IndonesiaThough avant-garde fashion still faces skepticism in Indonesia, Viony Oktavia sees potential growth. She notes that present creative spaces like Ashta District 8, Museum MACAN, and modern retail installations serves as proof that the aesthetic is already gaining ground.
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Through curating and reselling pieces from labels like Vivienne Westwood, Comme des Garçons, and Margiela, she has noticed rising interest in Jakarta. For Viony, it signals an untapped market.
To push the movement further, she plans to collaborate with artists, designers, and publications, building momentum and expanding avant-garde’s reach in Indonesia.
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Viony Oktavia On Risk, Growth And Staying True
As a designer who’s navigated self doubt through her craft, Viony shares grounded advice for those curious to explore the avant-garde path.
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Take every opportunity: “You never know when one will lead to something big.”
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Find your direction: Be patient and stay true to yourself, even if it means adjusting along the way.
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Don’t play it safe: “Avoid limiting yourself to what the market expects. Step outside your comfort zone.”
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Learn from everything: Every project has a lesson. Let each one push your growth and shape your vision.
Her words remind us that the journey in avant-garde fashion is about evolving with intention, risk, and authenticity.
What are your thoughts on emerging Indonesian designer VOP by Viony Oktavia? Was it eye-opening and fresh? What do you think will be the future for emerging Avant Garde designers ? Let us know own your thoughts! Follow us on Instagram: @StyleCartel and @StyleCartelMedia (yes, we have two spots to catch all the magic!). TikTok too, and leave a comment!