N0. 21 RTW Fall 2023 Runway Report at Milan Fashion Alessandro Dell’Acqua summoned a femme fatale for fall 2023, twisting the tropes of femininity to achieve a dishevelled elegance that’s on trend for the season, as seen on the runway at New York Fashion Week.
N0. 21 RTW Fall 2023
The designer used the great European actresses Monica Vitti and Jeanne Moreau as his starting point in the era when they were heroines of Michelangelo Antonioni’s sensual 1960s films, and the middle-class clichés of Italy started falling apart, he said. “It’s exquisite but backward.”
On the runway, the clothes were sometimes literally backwards, with an enveloping camel coat worn back to front and a grey cardigan back-buttoned over a black embroidered pencil skirt. Lady suits were cropped to show a bare midriff, tight sweaters trimmed with faux fur collars, and straps slid suggestively off a wool shift dress.
Boudoir dresses with light effects were lovely, including a black tromp l’oeil style created from two slips. Other dresses had the impact of bodices peeling down, suggesting a state of undress and revealing sheer layers worn underneath.
As pretty as it was, there were few new ideas here. However, one accessory did stand out — a scorpion brooch is worn on the back. Talk about a self-defence agency.
What do you think of the collection? Cop or not?
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