It can be dangerous to build a brand around cultural identity. Kartik Kumra was in a reflective mood. His runway debut at Paris Fashion Week was over. The founder of Kartik Research was once an economics major. He launched his brand in 2021. The brand was then called Karu Research. The idea was to offer one-off pieces. These pieces highlighted Indian craftsmanship. Kumra, a native of Delhi, offered the real thing. His designs were not replicas. They came from the source. The brand’s fabric production uses no electricity. A different person makes each fabric. Kumra has a direct relationship with his artisans.
Kartik Research Spring 2026
Kumra is doing very well for himself. He built his label on instinct. He did not have industry connections. He was a 2023 LVMH Prize semi-finalist. He was added to the Paris Fashion Week calendar. The brand is now stocked at 52 stores. This includes Mr. Porter and SSENSE. Kumra scaled his business slowly. He did so with intention. Spring 2026 is his seventh collection. He has gained a legion of fans. His relaxed proportions are loved. His impeccable style is widely admired. These clothes are slow fashion. They are artisanally made. They are sophisticated, not pretentious. They have a good backstory.
Behind the Weave: Kartik Research at PFW
The growth of his business changed Kumra’s sense of responsibility. After a dinner with Indian ministers, he reflected.
“We’re the only Indian brand on this platform,” he said.
He felt a responsibility to his culture. He also understands that its portrayal can be more expansive. He is not being so romantic with storytelling. This season, he looked at documentary photographers. He studied local artisan uniforms. He also looked at religious pilgrimages. The result is a complete and nuanced collection.
Key Silhouettes from the Collection: The Kartik Research signature style
- Relaxed proportions
- Artisanally made pieces
- Sophisticated and contemporary clothing
Key Trends to Watch for : Cultural storytelling and craftsmanship
- Nuanced cultural representation
- Handwoven khadi fabrics
- Handmade embellishments
- Block prints by skilled artists
The Colours of the Season
- Lived-in patina
- Natural khadi hues
- Rich, beaded tones
Key Accessories
- Beaded waistbands
- Tailored trousers
- Repurposed Levi’s jeans
Kumra worked with handwoven khadi fabrics. These became a symbol of Indian freedom. The clothes have a sense of lightness. They have a lived-in patina. He trimmed and embellished pieces with leather. He added beaded waistbands to tailored trousers. He used jeans from repurposed Levi’s. This balances an artisanal and contemporary tension. Kumra knows when to hold back. He knows when to push textile treatments. He is pragmatic with his work. He is not making souvenirs. His work is romantic but not sentimental. This is a good thing.
“All of this could be mechanised and replicated,” Kumra said. “That defeats the purpose.” The challenge is scaling the business. The question is whether his artists can grow with him. The answer is yes. Kumra started his brand for a reason. He felt a lack of South Asian culture in the mainstream. He is betting on fashion to change that.
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Photos: Kartik Research
