As a native New Yorker and Muslim woman, I find this year’s intersection of politics and fashion heavy. Our relationship with houses like Kartik Research feels more urgent than ever. Standing in a bright, blue-carpeted room in the 16th Arrondissement, I felt a shift. Kartik Kumra isn’t just making clothes. He is weaving a narrative of survival and hope.
Kartik Research FW26
I caught up with the legendary Edward L. Buchanan during the show. We discussed the vital role of indie publications in these spaces. Buchanan emphasised that Style Cartel deserves a seat at the table. In a world of corporate giants, our presence ensures diverse voices remain heard. Being in the room allows us to document the power of POC designers firsthand. It is an essential act of representation for our community.
A Seat at the Table: Why Style Cartel Matters
New York recently celebrated a historic moment. Zohran Mamdani took his oath as Mayor on his family’s Quran. He wore a brown eri silk tie from Kartik Research. Stylist Gabriella Karefa-Johnson facilitated this viral fashion moment via a simple DM. Backstage, Kumra noted the significance of Mamdani’s progressive politics. He sees the New York political pendulum swinging toward hope. His collection reflects that same defiant, optimistic energy.
From the Mayor’s Office to the Paris Catwalk
The Collection: Global Craft vs. Trade Barriers
The conversation turned to the recent 50% US tariffs on Indian goods. These economic shifts threaten the livelihoods of 300 Indian artisans. Kumra responded by doubling down on heritage craft. Without these makers, the brand loses its soul.
The runway sparkled with intricate embroidery and gold sequined petals. My favourite pieces were the Salwar Kameez sets. These traditional suits feature loose trousers and long tunics. They offer a modern, casual look, reminiscent of a jazz musician’s ease.
Key Pieces and Textures:
The Palette: Confident shades of iridescent mango, burgundy suede, and indigo corduroy.
The Kantha Tuxedo: A hand-embroidered masterpiece in light stone grey.
The Barn Jacket: Beige leather-collared outerwear featuring pink floral vines.
The Raag Influence: Archives from the 1970s inspired exquisite, magnetic textures.
Is Fashion Finally Opening Doors?
Is the industry truly embracing the power of POC? Kumra’s presence as the first Indian designer on the Paris schedule is historic. His vision proves that centuries-old techniques belong in a global, modern wardrobe. During these political times, we need to open doors. We need editors who are relatable and authentic. We need to dance, create, and celebrate our shared humanity.
Kumra transforms Indian flamboyance into essential streetwear. He repositions India as a centre for refreshing global fashion. This story is only just beginning.
What do you think of the fusion of politics and embroidery? Follow Style Cartel on social media and leave a comment below!
