History isn’t just written; it’s meticulously hand-stitched. This morning in western Paris, the atmosphere shifted as PHAN HUY officially claimed its seat at the table. For a born and bred New Yorker, there is nothing like the buzz of a breakout moment. At just 27, creative director Phan Huy made history as the youngest designer and the first Vietnamese creator to join the official Paris Haute Couture Week calendar.
PHAN HUY SS26 Couture
Why Style Cartel Is in the Room
The fashion stratosphere is often a closed circle of corporate giants like Chanel and Dior. But Style Cartel thrives on the pulse of the “new.” Being in the room for PHAN HUY is essential because the brand represents the impulse of the French fashion federation (FHCM) toward real diversity and fresh heritage. Founders Phan Huy and Steven Doan are on a mission to prove that Vietnam, a global hub for mass manufacturing, is a powerhouse of elite creativity as well.
“Cành Vàng Lá Ngọc”: The Golden Branch and Jade Leaf
The collection, titled “Cành Vàng Lá Ngọc,” translates to “The Golden Branch and Jade Leaf,” referencing rare Vietnamese imperial treasures. Huy looked to the Nguyen dynasty—specifically icons like Empress Nam Phuong and Emperor Khai Dinh—to explore the dialogue between Eastern ritual and Western influence.
Key Pieces and Tech-Couture Trends
Phan Huy played it safe with “oh-so-couture” shapes but went bold on technical labour. The energy backstage was electric, with the team rallying models before they hit the runway.
- The Rocha Red: A shiver-inducing red gown worn by Coco Rocha that reportedly took three months to craft.
- Horsehair Architecture: Tulle livened with 7-millimetre horsehair braids, creating a fan-like striping effect that telegraphed “couture, but fun”.
- The 3D Organza Leaf: Dresses strewn with individually edged organza leaves, each hand-stitched with tubular beads to create a blooming floral arrangement.
- Fluidity in Motion: A stunner chiffon column dress overlaid with glittering strands that showcased Phan’s ability to move beyond structured corsetry.
The New Haute Couture Client
Who is the PHAN HUY client? They seek depth and storytelling over fast trends. This “new” couture client values a refined fusion of cultural heritage and modern technology. While orders are flooding in from around the globe, the brand remains rooted in an atelier of 40 seamstresses and embroiderers in Vietnam.
Red Carpet Predictions: Style Cartel’s Picks
Style Cartel predicts PHAN HUY will dominate upcoming awards seasons. We see the encrusted bralets and sheer column dresses on Ariana Grande (Huy’s self-proclaimed muse) or Zhao Lusi. For the Oscars, the “Rocha Red” is a high-drama lock for Taraji P. Henson or Zendaya.
Is Phan Huy the refreshing voice Haute Couture has been waiting for? Follow Style Cartel on social media and leave your thoughts in the comments!
Photos: PHAN HUY SS26 COUTURE
