Undercover FW25: Raw Beauty & Patti Smith Vibes

Let’s talk Undercover FW25 and about Jun Takahashi, shall we? This man, my dears, is a poet of the runway. For Undercover’s 35th anniversary, he didn’t just throw a party; he gave us a visceral experience. It was like stepping into a gritty, beautiful dream, where Patti Smith was the muse and imperfection was the star.

Undercover Fall 2025: When Imperfection Becomes Art

A Bit About Undercover

For those who think fashion is all about pristine perfection, Undercover is a delicious wake-up call. Jun Takahashi’s brand is a rebellion against the ordinary, a celebration of the unconventional. Think of it as the downtown cool kid who always knows how to throw the best underground party.

The Runway Report: An Ode to Raw Beauty

Salle Wagram was transformed into a stage for real women, not just mannequins. Takahashi’s street casting was a stroke of genius, showcasing the kind of beauty that comes from living, from experience, and from owning your quirks. It was like watching a moving art installation, where every woman was a masterpiece.

Key Silhouettes:
  • Asymmetric Tailoring: Think deconstructed blazers and skirts that defy symmetry, creating a sense of effortless cool.
  • Dramatic-Shaped Puffers: Bold, sculptural puffers that were more art than outerwear.
  • Spiral Cut Champion Track Sets: A nod to streetwear with a twist, these track sets were both edgy and comfortable.
  • Padded Coats with Uneven Finishing: Intentionally imperfect, these coats were a testament to the beauty of raw edges.
Key Accessories:
  • Monstrous Heels: Created by Anne-Valerie Dupond, these heels were like wearable sculptures, adding a touch of the surreal.
  • Jacquard Ensembles Dripping with Pins, Beads, Buttons, and Gold Ornaments: Eclectic and personal, these accessories told a story.
  • Rolled-Up Ripped Jeans: A classic with a rebellious edge, these jeans were a staple of the collection.

Beauty Trends:

  • Natural Texture: Hair was left natural, embracing its unique texture and volume.
  • Minimal Makeup: The focus was on real beauty, with minimal makeup enhancing rather than masking.
  • Emphasis on Individuality: Every model’s look was unique, celebrating their style.

Runway Trends:

  • Street Casting: Celebrating real women and diverse beauty.
  • Deconstruction and Imperfection: Embracing raw edges and unfinished details.
  • Eclectic Embellishments: Mixing and matching textures and ornaments for a personal touch.
  • The mix of high and low: Champion tracksuits with couture-like embellishments.
Celebrities We’ll See Wearing It:

Think Tilda Swinton, Chloë Sevigny, and any artist who dares to be different. I can already picture them rocking those asymmetric blazers and sculptural puffers.

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Charlotte Smith

Editor & Chief

Charlotte Smith is the founder of Style Cartel, a platform dedicated to creating engaging digital content and securing impactful editorial coverage for brands and POCs like herself. With a background in Fashion, digital marketing, or brand strategy, Charlotte brings a wealth of experience in connecting brands with their audiences. She is passionate about showcasing brands with unique stories and values and helping them amplify their reach through compelling content. Charlotte believes that there is a seat at the table for everyone and holds the elevator door open so we all can go to the penthouse suite.