Earning the title of a fashion-tech visionary is no easy feat, especially in the world of couture, where elegance and innovation must coexist in perfect harmony. Yet Iris van Herpen has consistently proven that the two can not only coexist but elevate one another. With each collection, the Dutch designer pushes the boundaries of what the future of couture can be: blending science, art, and craftsmanship into creations so otherworldly, they seem like visions imagined by AI itself.
So how will her Autumn/Winter 2025 Couture collection, SYMPOIESIS be able to stand out in a universe she has already wielded consisting of robotics, 3d printing and laser cutting? In just nine months, Iris Van Herpen and her team together with bio designer Chris Bellamy @Bio.Crafted, have developed a collection rooted in bioluminescene and algae growth, merging the urge of sustainable practices with human intelligence to once again redefine the future of fashion.
Sympoiesis By Iris Van Herpen
The collection title SYMPOIESIS comes from an ancient Greek word that gained prominence through Donna Haraway, a feminist scholar and biologist. Haraway uses the term to explain that no system exists in isolation, everything is formed through connection, relationships, and shared creation.
It’s etymology aligns perfectly with the collection’s core message. Drawing inspiration from the ocean, it highlights our deep bond with Earth’s most vital ecosystem. The ocean generates over half of the oxygen we breathe, making it essential for life to flourish.
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The first look on the runway, titled “Living Look,” introduced a groundbreaking innovation from Dutch designer Iris van Herpen and biodesigner @bio.crafted, who collaborated on the piece. Unlike a traditional garment, this look doesn’t use fabric, instead, it features 125 million living algae cells that glow in response to movement.
To keep the algae alive, the team grew them directly onto the form of the garment. A nutrient-rich gel feeds the organisms, while a transparent layer shields them and still lets in light and air, keeping the system alive throughout the show.
This living piece responds to both light and time, transforming the look into something not just wearable, but alive: a blend of nature, science, and couture under the hypnotic rhythm of the waves.
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The 18 look collection opened with a holographic atmosphere that gradually shifted into a more somber setting. The remaining pieces showcased a range of striking techniques, including intricate fabric manipulations, mechanical movement, laser cutting, and other Iris van Herpen’s signature craftsmanship.
Explore the full collection below.
All images courtesy of Vogue.
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