Carly Mark morphed her authentic spirit of creativity through the Puppets and Puppets Fall 2024 collection during her final show at New York Fashion Week. Her novel brand now turns to the London scene in the hopes of focusing on fashion accessories.
The Puppet Master Pulls The Strings
Ever since the whimsical brand debuted its first collection in Fall 2019, it stayed true to its nature by consistently reiterating quirky and unconventional designs. Carly Mark, the current creative director, turned her background in sculptural artistry, desire for authenticity, and disdain for the constraints of capitalistic institutions into the foundational motives of the brand. Her inspirations stem from a plethora of fantastical, cinematic, streetwear, and retro influences, resonating with creative spaces in Asia, Europe, and America.
But after a valiant display of 11 collections, Puppets and Puppets announced its departure from New York. It wasn’t receiving enough financial and industrial support, a frustrating dilemma the New York fashion scene is known for. In an article by SHOWstudio, Mark said the following:
“I have a friend in Paris paying €850 a month for a studio. She lives alone. I choose that, you know what I mean? I choose that life. I am not saying fashion is any easier in other cities. Fashion is hard everywhere. I just think I am my priority now.
“There needs to be more support for young designers from the top. I think that there is more support for bigger brands here and less support for young designers. I think that this system needs to support young creatives in a way that is not happening at the moment.”
Thus Mark solidifies her title as the puppet master by altering the course of her brand’s future despite the opinions of media and fashion critics. But not without one last bid of farewell to New York City.
The Fall/Winter 2024 Collection
When asked about the Puppets and Puppets Fall/Winter collection, Mark told Vogue, “It’s not ideal, or what she wanted to do, but ‘at this point in fashion, as a young designer, thriving is just surviving.’” In a way, this sentiment reflected in the tattered hoodie sweatshirts, oddly constructed wool dresses, and loosely formed sheer tops. The color story also brought a tough element to an otherwise somber and vulnerable palette.
KNOTS & CLUTCHES
Models clench the knotted ends of capes and sheer open tights thrown over their shoulders as they come down the runway. Mark notes that this was more of a design choice, but one can almost compare this to the feeling of holding onto something precious till the very end.
FUR GALORE
Faux fur wraps and re-imagined coat silhouettes paired with sheer tights under translucent dresses, ruched seam-line pants, and an oversized quilt-stitched trouser. Whether this was to satisfy the fall/winter element of the season or not, these fur pieces can also be seen as protective or comforting elements placed over otherwise delicate garments.
SHAWLS & HOODS
Gathered lengths of patterned dresses cascade into head coverings. The shorter hems on the translucent print dresses curve up into hoods. This family of details portrays the most vulnerable touch to the collection, yet also nods to an unorthodox and avante-garde iteration of clothing functionality. It brings one question to mind: who gets to decide what the “proper” way of wearing clothes is?
The Future of Puppets and Puppets
When it comes down to it, Mark’s goals for herself and her brand have been clear from the beginning. Remaining true to herself, believing in her visions while still being realistic, and focusing on breaking even despite challenging business circumstances has turned her sights towards the London fashion scene. She hopes to focus on developing the accessories portion of Puppets and Puppets, which has seen more profitability compared to their ready-to-wear.
Whether Mark continues on her journey of authenticity, or London inspires a shift in her design process, we hope to see what innovative accessories Puppets and Puppets delivers come London fashion week.
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