KNWLS sends models of fierce vigor down the runway during London Fashion Week, introducing a new sultry and mature spirit for its Fall/Winter 2024 collection.
The True & New
KNWLS has always been for the cool, edgy, and sexy feminine. The London-based brand started out in 2017 by founder Charlotte Knowles and her partner/co-creator Alexandre Arsenault. Since then it has delivered unapologetically riveting wardrobes to its young following of club goers and pop-star celebrities. To KNWLS, it’s all about taking disruptive feminine energy and creating body-conscious pieces that play into a dichotomic touch of sensuality and danger.
For the collection “Sensational,” Knowles & Arsenault introduced a new element to the brand. The London fashion scene sees more difficulty for brands to garner profitability and support. The constant bombardment of fleeting, new aesthetics like “cow-girl core” and “soft coquette” takes over social media every other week. But KNWLS steps away from the madness. Instead they plunge into their authenticity by expanding for a new audience: the mature woman. According to Vogue:
“The duo also emphasized that their intention was to open the brand up to a wider age range of customers, alongside the club kids and pop stars who first made their intricate mesh pieces a viral sensation. ‘I think we really wanted to elevate things, and make it feel a little more mature and ladylike,’ Knowles added.”
The Fall/Winter 2024 Collection
One can immediately identify an underlying grit and edge to the garments for this season’s collection. Sexy and grunge elements collide through explorative usage of fabrics and textures, muted and soft shades with the occasional pops of color, as well as various arrays of silhouettes and drapes.
SHOULDER OF THE 80s
The KNWLS runway revives 1980s power dressing, a prominent theme for this season’s collection. Oversized shoulders and bishop sleeve cuffs come with sharp plunging necklines on double-breasted wool crepe jackets, a bold sea-green leather jacket adorned with buckles, and an ochre cotton jacket paired with matching cargo-esque capris.
FUR THE IT-GIRL
For the it-girl looking to add a bit of warmth to her uniform of cool and slinky fits, there couldn’t be a better family of looks. Between slim-fitted utility-esque and leather jackets with blossoming fur-lined sleeves, collars, and torsos, we are given an effortless yet powerful punk take on the fall & winter elements. Can we also take a moment to applaud just how fun the pops of color and fur placements make the garments?
CLUB SIREN
Office siren by day, club siren by night. Fine double-layered jersey dresses that fit and hug along the body. One strap slouching off the shoulder as if ready for the dance floor right after clocking out. A deep yellow ochre cotton mini dress highlighted with tasseled zippers and a ruched-stitch neckline. A rich sea green corset boasting a busty, plunging neckline and matched with its slitted low-hip pencil skirt. We can thank KNWLS’ willingness to experiment with different fabrics to give daring new iterations to their known clubbing attire.
WARRIOR WOMAN
A warrior in this day and age? KNWLS answers that by bringing down models of fierce vigor, each donning sculpted jackets of aged vented leather and reconstructed pinstripe denim. A personal favorite features a cascading leather coat harboring the 80s power shoulders and a sexy chest-crossed slit dress underneath. Another favorite is a black set where the collar falls into interesting lapels. And what about the wide, bellowing flare on those matching pants? Imagine the movement as the wearer walks in powerful strides. Talk about viking woman meets modern day bad-ass.
EVOLVING SPIRIT
The decision to take on a more mature sense for the KNWLS woman is most prevalent in this family of looks. The necklines of the knit sweater top and mini dress give an alluring yet reserved shape to the nape. The sleeves are flattering and feminine. Even the thick houndstooth tweed sweaters, consisting of alternating cool and neutral tones, could be worn by any woman for a powerful yet appealing feel. KNWLS trades in a bit of their sultriness for some grown-woman vibes, but we can still see the former identity reign with the pairing choices of sheer tight shorts or low-hip mini skirts.
Looking Forward
We see the unveiling of a new side to the KNWLS woman, one that chooses to “zero in on her innate severe elegance” as the “aloof chic is counterposed by bold extroversion” according to the brand’s press release. The core vision remains, keeping the original youthful spirit alive. But perhaps KNWLS has only begun to evolve into its truth.
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