Pauline Dujancourt describes her brand. It’s emotional, intricate, and about sisterhood. Her Smithfield Market studio hums with creativity. Delicate organza panels drape over workbenches. Crocheted birds adorn the walls. This is where magic begins. After an eventful LFW day, it was a pleasure to relax and watch artistic beauty descend the runway.
Pauline Dujancourt SS26 London Fashion Week
Dujancourt’s connection to textiles runs deep. Her grandfather worked in a dye factory. He brought fabric scraps home for his wife. Pauline’s grandmother, Marianne, crafted clothes for six children. “My parents sent me to their place,” Dujancourt recalls. “My grandmother taught me crochet.”
Pauline Dujancourt: Grief, Grandmothers, and Gulls at LFW
She studied fashion in Paris. Then, Central Saint Martins accepted her in 2020. “I moved to London at 20,” she states. “The scene impressed me deeply. I loved the independent designers here.” London Fashion Week promised experimentation.
Blooms, Birds, and Breakthroughs
Pandemic London greeted Dujancourt without a job. “Suddenly I had time,” she says. “I rediscovered my crochet books.” Her AW25 collection showcases this craft. Dresses and capes burst with crocheted flowers. “My first show was for my grandma Marianne,” she reveals. Marianne had a special plant. It bloomed only once. After her passing, her children propagated it. The plant flowers every February. This marks her birthday anniversary.
A Parisian Heart in London’s Fashion Pulse
“In 2024, mine didn’t flourish,” she recounts. “I decided to make that flower bloom in my work. Thousands of crocheted flowers appeared. They connected us.”
This massive undertaking is ethical. Dujancourt collaborates with Peruvian women. They crochet from home. This allows them to care for families. “It’s a huge help for us,” she explains. “We know all the makers by name.”
The Seagull’s Song: A Narrative of Resilience
This SS26 collection draws from Chekhov’s The Seagull. Dujancourt once played Nina. Nina’s final monologue resonates strongly. She compares herself to a seagull. A strong, driven woman. “I identify with Nina’s resilience,” Dujancourt shares. “Creativity is joy and strength.” Nina finds faith despite hardship. “Life doesn’t hurt so much anymore,” she says.
A sudden loss hit Dujancourt hard. A close friend passed away. “The shock was immense,” she confides. She turned to Nina’s words. Creativity became her solace. She immersed herself in the process. The narrative deepened. A poem, given to guests, reflects this. It became the collection’s seed.
Birds are central to her designs. Dujancourt explored shapes and volumes. She returned to images of folding wings. These curves inspired her drapes. “It reminded me of my mum’s wedding dress,” she adds. A “Mourning dress” opens. A “Mother’s dress” closes. They juxtapose pain and joy. Both mark life’s important moments.
KEY Pieces
- Crocheted Flower Dresses
- Bird Dresses with Tulle Knit
- Hybrid Argyle Sweaters
Silhouettes
- Voluminous Drapes
- Feather-light Layers
- Structured Crocheted Capes
Accessories
Delicate Knit Shawls
Hand-crocheted Bird Brooches
Reinventing the Fabric of Fashion
Dujancourt tackled technical textiles. She re-examined two archetypes. Argyle knit sweaters. Crochet “granny squares.” These once repelled her. She chose light yarns. Tulle strips are combined with them. New hybrid versions emerged. They feel light as feathers. They are vaporous, sensual, and feminine. The “Bird Dress” embodies this. It’s a striking silhouette. It breathes life into textile development.
In honour of her friend, Dujancourt crocheted birds. Four hundred and fifty birds. A gift for each guest. Worn as brooches. Each bird symbolises transition. Letting go of pain.
Why Pauline Dujancourt is a One to Watch
Pauline Dujancourt offers more than clothes. She offers stories. Her designs are deeply personal. They are ethically produced. She pushes textile boundaries. Her vision is unique. She transforms grief into beauty. This is fashion with soul.
Don’t miss a beat! Follow @StyleCartel on Instagram for all the latest fashion news and exclusive content! Find us on TikTok too, and tell us what you think of Pauline Dujancourt‘s incredible collection in the comments below!
