The Jacquemus’ Anniversary Show in Capri pulled out all the stops from the luxury location, A – list elite guest lists with Gwyneth Paltrow, Dua Lipa and model-of-the-day Jennie Kim, in attendance. To celebrate a collection set the scene to showcase the peak and marked the teenager’s Quinceanera Party show of Jacquemus. The brand is entering it’s soft life era and we love it.
Jacquemus’ Anniversary Show in Capri
The 15th-anniversary show that Jacquemus staged under the beautiful Mediterranean sun — was a meetup of fashion force and a pinch of inventiveness for founder Simon Porte Jacquemus. It was an intimate sweet 15 birthday party. Which stuck to the designer’s signature cinematic staging, VIP list and fashion edgy essentials which build on the brand’s upscale direction Jacquemus is taking. With bunquette shaped in a J for the intimate attendees to sit and watch the splender of the Jacquemus luxe life unfold.
The show space is an Italian villa Casa Malaparte — an architectural splendour sitting on a clifftop of one of the world’s prettiest islands — consistent with the Jacquemus’ DNA and positioning him next to luxury brands that have tried to stage runway events there in the past. It was a matter of verisimilitude, too: Jacquemus chose the red building in tribute to one of his favourite movies, “Le Mépris” (“Contempt”) by Jean-Luc Godard, whose aesthetics inspired the designer’s fashion vision 15 years ago.
“I was afraid when I arrived at the house because beauty can be perilous, you don’t want to play with it in a way, because you love something so much that it is so pure,” he said.
JACQUEMUS SHOW “LA CASA” – CASA MALAPARTE
This is also why his initial idea of creating a “very couture show” for the anniversary turned into a smaller gathering out of respect for the location. “I didn’t want to do a show, I wanted to do a collection on the house. And [the family said] no one ever proposed that. They said ‘no’ to many people because they don’t want to use the house just as a show venue.”
The show opened with an accolade to Brigitte Bardot’s character in the Godard movie via a fuzzy canary yellow coat mimicking a towelling robe and closed with Jennie Kim providing the social media Tiktok buzz by modelling a black dress with a full skirt and revealing back. The collection stayed with the essential DNA of the brand, bold colours, wearable pieces for a phtelora of bodies, and the stable accessories.
The see-now-buy-now fall 2024 collection alternated the structured textures and sharp lines of dresses and coats with ample portrait collars, A-line skirts and stiff frocks with flounced tops, sheer mousseline long skirts and the fluid draping of sensual jersey dresses cut out in the back or on the sides to reveal legs, thigh bones and more. I wanted to buy directly from the runway many of the upscale pieces for mature women with a modest but sexy touch.
A periodic zebra pattern popped up on coats and pencil skirts, upgrading the brand to a more bourgeois vibe. The menswear with the same print heightened the slightly more mischievous spirit Jacquemus embraced via mariniere motifs and below-the-knee pleated pants. Adding that extra pizza to the solid colours.
Pinned to the Jacquemus mood board, images of Capri’s queen of style Jackie Kennedy further pointed to an ease of dressing that doesn’t compromise on glamour. “With her capri pants and sailor blouses, I found her so refreshing, I needed to look back at simplicity,” said Jacquemus. A few images to the right, a portrait of Paltrow popped up “Because today who would be that kind of woman? I think it’s Gwyneth,” he said of the actress.
It is refreshing to see that mature classy women are back in style. Designers in Europe appeal to all women and are not obsessed with youth culture. Jacquemus includes in its world the mature woman and her fashion atheistic and pockets. Mature women have more money to spend and DINK’s women who love fashion.
“Now we’re finally embracing the luxury customer. It’s what I want and it will take time,” said Jacquemus. “It’s been 15 years but I’m still a teenager brand. I’m so aware that I have so much craftsmanship to acknowledge… I’m so respectful of the savoir-faire all around [luxury] but I’m working hard.
“When I was younger I was just trying to do a new thing, now I’m thinking of the brand’s longevity,” he continued, pointing to recently becoming a father as a factor further sparking his long-term vision. “But I don’t want to become like other [brands] either, I want to keep who we are, keep the honesty… My proudest moment of the past 15 years was to be able to grow and be very aware of what are my forces. I know exactly what I’m doing. Now I want people to understand that I work for the long term and not for a good check, that’s not my priority,” he concluded.
Photo Credit: Jacquemus
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