Martine Rose is set to lead Balenciaga into its next era as the first woman to take the creative helm of the fashion house in its 109-year history. And she might just be the perfect creative director for Balenciaga. Here’s why.
Who is Martine Rose?
If you haven’t heard of her before, then where have you been? Known for her distinctive take on streetwear, Rose draws heavily on her British-Jamaican heritage, with identity and culture playing a central role in her craftsmanship.
Born in Croydon, South London, and graduating from Middlesex University with a degree in fashion, Rose’s working-class upbringing has heavily influenced her creative direction. The designer often explores how identity shapes her stylistic vision, particularly through menswear, with 1990s rave culture and London’s underground street style helping to define her aesthetic.
Rose founded her eponymous clothing label in London in 2007, becoming part of a new generation of designers challenging the traditional fashion landscape. From the beginning, authenticity has been at the heart of her work, drawing inspiration from the people, communities and subcultures around her. It was the start of something special in the fashion world, and Rose was only getting started.
Her style explores unconventional silhouettes, using fabrics and proportions to draw upon subcultures and traditional ideas of masculinity. She often blurs the lines between tailoring and relaxed outerwear, bringing two seemingly different styles into conflict. Though this approach may seem commonplace in fashion today, Martine Rose was among the designers helping to pioneer this way of dressing.
Today, we’ve seen the likes of Hailey and Justin Bieber sporting her designs, alongside a growing list of celebrities and musicians.
Famously, Rose designed Kendrick Lamar’s baseball jacket for his Super Bowl halftime performance in 2025, which certainly caught everyone’s attention.
Even if you haven’t heard of Martine Rose, chances are you’ve seen her influence in fashion without even realising it.
Why Balenciaga?
Although she may seem under the radar, Martine Rose’s appointment is a natural one. The designer has already helped shape Balenciaga into the fashion house we know today, working alongside Demna as a menswear consultant when he joined the label in 2015.
Many of the looks that established Balenciaga as a household name throughout the late 2010s drew on the same unconventional approach to streetwear and proportion that Rose has explored throughout her own career.
“Balenciaga has always been a house of radical creativity, challenging conventions, and redefining the boundaries of fashion,” added Kering CEO Luca de Meo. “Martine Rose embodies this spirit with a fresh, fearless, and deeply contemporary vision.”
She will replace Pierpaolo Piccioli following his relatively short, but sweet, 18-month tenure at Balenciaga. While Piccioli brought a more romantic and couture-led direction to the house, Rose’s appointment suggests a return to the unconventional streetwear influences that have played such an important role in Balenciaga’s recent identity.
What’s next for Balenciaga?
The appointment of Martine Rose is a huge success for British fashion and marks a key turning point for Balenciaga, making her the first woman to lead the house in its 109-year history.
Beginning on 16 November 2026, we can anticipate a fresh take on alternative streetwear, with Rose bringing her own distinctive perspective to the Parisian fashion house. The designer has previously spoken about why she chooses to remain in London, emphasising that it is the people who make the city what it is. Despite an economic climate that continues to price people out of the capital, its creativity and culture remain very much alive.
It is this very ethos that Rose will bring to Balenciaga. Her appointment is an opportunity to celebrate the communities and subcultures that have influenced her work for nearly two decades. And if there’s one thing we can expect, it’s that she won’t be afraid to challenge the status quo.
