Welcome fashion divas and divos! We’re back again at London Fashion Week, this time turning our attention to Swedish designer Petra Fagerström and her Spring/Summer 2027 collection, ‘Swedish Summer’. For more runway moments, fashion commentary and the latest from the style scene, make sure you’re following StyleCartel on Instagram and TikTok.
The Petra Fagerström Swedish Summer
The title initially sounds like a postcard from a sun-soaked Scandinavian holiday, but Fagerström’s vision is far more interesting. ‘Swedish Summer’ began with a joke about the collection’s substantial layers: while working through heatwaves in London, the clothes looked better suited to a cooler Scandinavian season. That playful contradiction became the starting point for a collection that questions what dressing for summer, and dressing ‘like a woman’, can look like.
Rather than offering the predictable lightness associated with spring and summer, Fagerström explored a moodier wardrobe of leather, lace, structured outerwear and intricate floral details. The result feels both composed and disruptive: polished at first glance, then full of surprises when you look closer.
The duality of chicness and rebellion
Fagerström draws on the proportions of mid-century dressing, with cinched waists, sculpted shoulders and silhouettes that recall the discipline of 1940s and 1950s couture. But these familiar codes are recast in unexpected materials. A fitted leather interpretation of the classic Bar jacket replaces softness with attitude, while floral embroidery brings delicacy into conversation with a tougher, almost armour-like surface.
This push and pull is central to the collection. Ladylike shapes are not rejected; they are reclaimed and made more complex. A neat silhouette can carry a rebellious edge, and a traditionally feminine detail can exist without dictating how the wearer should behave.
How Petra Fagerström incorporate movement
One of the most compelling elements is Fagerström’s interest in clothing that changes as it moves. Her signature approach to pleating and lenticular effects creates a kind of fashion sleight of hand: a garment may appear restrained from one angle, then reveal another image, texture or detail in motion. Pleated dresses can flash unexpected lingerie-inspired elements, while outerwear can disguise a more elaborate construction beneath its surface.
The collection rewards a second look. Instead of relying only on dramatic volume or obvious embellishment, Fagerström builds intrigue into the garment itself, turning movement, perspective and the viewer’s assumptions into part of the design.
The finer details
Black leather and delicate lace might seem like opposites, but here they work together to create a femininity that is neither entirely sweet nor wholly severe. Flower embroidery softens sturdy leather, while lingerie references bring intimacy to structured shapes. Practical outerwear sits alongside pieces with a distinctly romantic, even provocative, sensibility.
That contrast makes the collection feel personal rather than prescriptive. Fagerström is not suggesting that modern femininity has to choose between elegance and edge, modesty and sensuality, or nostalgia and experimentation. Instead, the clothes allow those qualities to coexist.
So where are Petra Fagerström taking us?
Petra Fagerström’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection makes a case for dressing in contradictions. ‘Swedish Summer’ is not about following a single idea of seasonal dressing or femininity; it is about combining references that do not immediately seem to belong together and allowing the tension to become the point. Demi couture structure meets utilitarian function, romantic detail meets dark leather, and the familiar is quietly transformed.
The season also marks a step beyond clothing with the introduction of Fagerström’s first bag, created in collaboration with London-based designer Eden Tan. The accessory extends the collection’s interest in unexpected construction and gives the designer’s visual language another form to inhabit, an intriguing development for a label still establishing its signature.
For a designer making her London Fashion Week runway debut, the collection offers a distinctive proposition: clothes that are beautiful, but never entirely straightforward. And in a fashion landscape that can often mistake simplicity for certainty, Fagerström’s willingness to complicate the picture is what makes this collection worth looking at twice.
Photo credits: WWD, https://wwd.com/fashion-news/shows-reviews/gallery/petra-fagerstrom-spring-2027-collection-1239244324/petra-fagerstrom-spring-2027-ready-to-wear-collection-16/