It has been announced that Alexander McQueen will return to London Fashion Week under Dublin-born designer Seán McGirr since its departure 25 years ago. The fashion house will show off their haunting Spring/Summer 2027 collection, debuting menswear and womenswear. So with the closure of McQueen’s flagship store in Paris and McGirr returning the brand to its original stomping ground, what does this tell us about British fashion and culture right now?
Fashion critics have hailed this move as a desperate attempt to revive the brand since prioritising the Paris fashion calendar. Others have made thoughtful commentary on the reappearance of the British flag in contemporary fashion, resurgence of the Y2K WAG looks and BritPop swag from influencers returning to everyday fashion. Now seems timely for the London-based brand to return to its roots.
Chief Executive Officer of the British Fashion Council, Laura Weir welcomes the decision. She commented: “McQueen’s return is a statement of confidence in British creativity at its most fearless and distinctive. We are proud to welcome the house back to the official schedule and look forward to building an ambitious and meaningful partnership across the seasons ahead.”
Over the past two years we have witnessed a revival of Cool Britannia across fashion, music and culture. The inherent intersection between fashion and music has left Brits scouring Vinted for vintage Burberry, Ralph Lauren polo shirts and 90’s athleisure. This shift did not happen by chance. The Oasis Reunion Tour kick-started a trend of sporting parkas with mod cuts.
Other genres of music latched onto this newfound desire to purchase clothing which glorifies the Union Jack flag. We have seen British rapper Fakemink walk the runway for Gucci under Denma while EsDeeKid performed at the afterparty, tapping into their defiant attitude, born out of their outer-London upbringings. Then we have PinkPantheress and Ledbyher using tartan designs as a nod to their heritage, forcing fans to follow suit.
During the 2000’s, using brands to map out a fashion identity was seen as inherently working class, where the media labelled such people as ‘chavs’. Now it is fashionable to pick out Stone Island and Adidas, paring these labels with luxury brands like Dior, Alexander McQueen and Rick Owens. The likes of Skepta and Central Cee have normalised this merging of the opposing fashion worlds with Skepta flaunting fake Gucci with pride.
Let’s take the McQueen Scull Scarf as an example. On the 2003 runway, the pirate-like scarf dangled from the waist of a model in a provocative manner. Now scouse rapper EsDeeKid has turned the notorious skull print accessory into an emblem of the underground scene with fans wearing the piece as a balaclava. Charli XCX was seen in 2025 wearing a custom-made shawl at Glastonbury, a shredded McQueen scarf draping over the shoulders.
The nostalgic accessory is being used in the British music space as a symbol of disobedience against the division that is forced upon Brits across culture and politics. In 2026, British fashion has become not about what you are wearing, but how you wear it. The energy that your clothes radiate on a night out, a pint in your local or on a runway.
Alexander McQueen returning to London Fashion Week with their SS27 collection never felt so timely. Lee (McQueen) was knighted a founding father of British rebellion in fashion. The fashion world will remember the designer for his Victorian Gothic references and nods to his Scottish roots.
Notable collections and designs such as Highland Rape and Golden Shower positioned Alexander McQueen as fearless and conquering. Lee fought against the status quo which has left British fashion critics seeking the return of grit and integrity from McGirr this Autumn. Expect to see a vulnerability to McGirr with sharp tailoring and revealing glamour.
CEO of McQueen, Gianfranco d’Attis said: “London is where our story began and remains central to our identity. We are proud to reaffirm our commitment to the British Fashion Council and to the city’s extraordinary creative ecosystem, while continuing to build on McQueen’s heritage and shape its future.”
Expectations placed upon McGirr will stir up fashion week. Critics hope to see a sense of emotionality which Lee enforced in his designs. To incorporate a sense of Britishness, balancing with high-fashion excellence.
