- LOEWE’s Fall Winter 2024 Ready-to-Wear Runway Report echoed the Art and Love of Nature. The runway show attendees seemed part of the portrait as they looked in, yet from an outsider’s view. Set against the backdrop of Albert York’s small yet intense paintings. Jonathan Anderson invited us into the garden gallery of LOEWE’s Fall Winter 2024 Ready-to-Wear Runway collection.
York liked to paint beauty he saw, once telling an interviewer, “I think we live in a Paradise… This is a Garden of Eden.”
LOEWE Fall Winter 2024: Runway Report
LOEWE Fall Winter 2024 show was held at the Château des Vincennes, a three-hour drive from Paris. It was a day of fashion and culture, an aristocratic invitation to view Europe’s first exhibition dedicated to York. Whose charming works were collected by Jacqueline Kennedy, prompting Anderson to create a wearable and fun collection to prance and show of with joy.
“The idea of ‘the aristocratic’ is like a foreign thing now; it’s nearly nonexistent — nearly like a caricature,” he mused after the show.
Runway Report
Orchestrated in a forest green warren of rooms evoking an art museum, the walls hung with small landscape paintings by Albert York. The show opened with jersey gowns in arresting hourglass shapes, the fabric gathered in a buckle at the navel, and a useless length of leather belt slumping loosely from it. The designer had already gotten our attention.
It was Anderson’s contemplation on the meaning of luxury, explicitly soaring in on the interior landscapes and highly decorative antique objects collected by wealthy Americans. “I started exploring this idea of provenance and why we buy things and why things come to have meaning,” he said. “The idea of an outsider looking into a world we don’t experience.”
Anderson had discovered that Jackie Kennedy owned several of York’s scarce paintings (and he owns one himself, Landscape With Three Trees and a Pond, which he reproduced on a canvas print as the show invitation). Perhaps it seemed surreal to him that work by an artist so detached from society and dedicated to depicting the simple life—nature, flowers, and dogs—should end up as treasures in high-society settings.
Runway Report
Anderson’s wildly associative mind was shooting off, looking at the insanely ornate collectables—elaborate china, tapestry embroideries of pets, Chippendale furniture—that women interior designers “specifically of the 1920s” place for their clients in their Upper East Side apartments.
LOEWE was born in Spain and remains the brand’s home. The LOEWE Fall Winter 2024 and the Albert York inspiration give it an edgy American garden wear feel. With cool boots and a nice dresses Courtney Love might garden in. Too the baggy trousers you can garden in, skateboard in and hangout in. We were feeling the vibe.
Under Anderson, LOEWE started a new chapter, presenting itself as more multifaceted and dynamic brand. Ultrasoft leather accessories were given a playful dynamic in the shapes of animals and the T-Pouch. The latest collection of show-stoppers is the arm candy pieces. Big bags, small bags, and bags with needlepoint-like bird motifs also match the shoes and prints used in the collection.
The Puzzle, Anderson’s first bag design for the house, is an entirely new bag design that adds a novel character to LOEWE’s range of iconic accessories. It pairs of-the-moment functionality and aesthetics with clever structure and incredible softness.
At Loewe, Jonathan Anderson proposed a wearable collection for all types of women, which has been a trend this Paris Fashion Week. This collection is geared toward women with an unconventional luxury taste and a pinch of grandma chic. Picture long, flowy dresses with bright and bold flower prints.
The Etonian morning coat metaphorically represented class and provenance, which showcased unexpected, incredible craftsmanship. Anderson’s morning coats were tailored cut, the sides extended into witchy lappels styled with floral jersey dresses with MC Hammer pants underneat and the tips dragging along the floor. These were stand-out looks that clients of the brand want in their closets.
As the models sailed down the runway, we went from the garden to a gala. A draped floral minidress with what looked like a giant water droplet suspended on the shoulder was an example of the former; jumbo-sized cargo pants as if for a Manga character. They were stylish under neath little blazers with a crisp shirt buttoned to the neck.
Anderson’s quirky prints were adorable, too: turnip tops for flowing silks, dinnerware florals rendered in dense caviar beads on sweatsuits and biker boots. On a trapeze dress an image of a dog snoozing on a carpet splashed over the front artful statement dress. But it’s those boots that linger in our brain show stopping pieces that clients will also sign up for the drop date.
The designers in Paris, post-pandemic, encourage women to start dressing up again. Fashion is fun, and Jonathan Anderson for LOEWE Fall Winter 2024 reminds us that so are our outfits and accessories.
LOEWE Fall Winter 2024 Cop or Not?
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Creative direction Jonathan Anderson
Styling Benjamin Bruno
Casting Ashley Brokaw
Hair Guido Palau
Make up Pat McGrath
Show coordination Holmes Production
Production La Mode en Images
Soundtrack Studio Frédéric Sanchez
Broadcast direction Titre Provisoire
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COLLECTION CREDITS: LOEWE
