Isabel Marant RTW Fall 2023

The designer channelled “desire and disorder” into a sexy coed lineup with a sophisticated edge.

Isabel Marant always brings the Party, and we know, just like last season when we pumped into her on the way to her Fashion Week party, check out Tiktok. 

Isabel Marant RTW Fall 2023

The runway became a club night at Palais Royale with a raucous performance by Lulu Van Trapp that had singer Rebecca Baby crowd-surfing and showed guests not wanting to leave. Baby and her band were repeatedly singing the mantra for the fall collection — “desire, disorder,” and the designer channelled both into a sexy coed lineup that was wearable as ever with a new, sophisticated edge, and we loved it: stylish clothes that give off the luxury, relaxed fit of extraordinary old money.

Runway Report

The brand broke from the print-heavy boho trend and entered a more advanced, dressed-up mode, with graphic-looking cuts, lots of leather and body-hugging knits, some shimmering with metallic thread or crystals.

“We wanted to make something simple but strong,” said artistic director Kim Bekker backstage at Marant’s side.

So knit dresses were slashed or zipper detailed, with swashbuckling over-knee boots or coloured footless tights elongating the leg. Glossy black or cherry red leather dresses, miniskirts, oversized biker jackets and duster coats also looked sharp and sleek with a feminine power vibe.

The new denim silhouette with contrasting yoke, low pockets and baggy legs brought vintage hip-hop ’90s Girbaud jeans style. They were worn with tonal strong shoulder boyfriend blazers, quilted jackets, or open-knit chunky sweaters, making for more formal denim dresses.

Also refreshing, in addition to their usual high-wattage catwalkers, the designers brought in all-ages models, including Liya Kebede, Delfine Bafort and Irina Shayk.

“For me, since I’m not so young anymore, I was feeling bad showing only young girls,” said Marant, 55, who founded the business in 1994, adding, “We wanted to show the brand is going through the different generations.”

“We are different generations, but we feel each other so well, and we see different generations wearing the clothes,” said Bekker of the brand that defined French as excellent for many women in the ’90s and 2000s and is now for their children. 

So what do you think, Hot or Not?

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Photo Credit: Isabel Marant

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Ferragamo RTW Fall 2023

We saw the minimalist trend rain supreme on the runways of Milan. Maximilian Davis continues to breathe a breath of fresh air into the Italian heritage brand as creative director.

The designer opened the Milan Fashion weeks show with a vaguely cocoon-shaped navy woollen coat with a dramatic throat latch. Then, prompting up the clean, geometric shapes. Setting the tone for the collection with many egalitarian silhouettes to lust over. 

Fitted pants that unzipped at the ankles and flared over glossy mules for her paired with square-toed boots for him underpinned most exits. We saw tailored coats and suits were tubular primarily and in dark colours, with white or red flashing from elbow seams. He also showed sleeve piping, lapels or filmy, removable cotton hoods, their fasteners splayed over the shoulders. This visual approach to colour, a Davis signature, gave otherwise plain clothes a bit of spice.

Bold cuts grabbed our attention for her scoop-neck tank tops paired with flaring leather pants and silvery jeans for him. It was beautiful to see his and her looks come down the runway.

Runway Report

For variety and some outrancier glamour, with a throwback to 90s style with oversized shaggy coats in red or leopard spots. To clinging Lurex minidresses with ruched bodices and high-shine patent, sometimes worn head-to-toe. For it and Influencer types, he reprised some of the activewear archetypes and utility details employed for his debut.

Prints were nonexistent, and the supersized handbags seemed targeted more for TikTok impressions than daily life, which we will see on street-style mavens.

After the show, the designer talked calmly about how he sees his job as dressing a “family of people, whether it’s for the mother, daughter, or father and son”, — which translates to appealing to the current Ferragamo customer. In the age of age is just a number, he was able to entice the entire family while also attracting a younger demographic that the house wanted by highering the younger designer—a brilliant idea by the house to draw in the next generation of long-term clients to the brand.

“I think it’s playing with the codes of the house that were always there, especially the codes from the ’80s and ’90s,” he retorted. “I think that ’90s is a trend that’s happening now. And I want to make it feel relevant for today.”

Davis also dipped a bit into the mid-2000s and brought back Canadian model Jessica Stam, whose distinctive, arm-swinging lope and doll-like beauty brought charm to the display.

What do you think, Cop or Not?

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Photo credit: Ferragamo

The post Ferragamo RTW Fall 2023 Runway Report appeared first on Style Cartel.

The LOUIS VUITTON MEN’S PRE-FALL 2023 “The Desert Race” collection prepares men to be nomads racing through the desert. The Adaptation is the mantra of the modern age. In the face of changing conditions, we weather the storms by leaning one another and collectively adapting to new circumstances. I like to call this collection the boys from Le Banlieues. 

LOUIS VUITTON MEN’S PRE-FALL 2023

For the Fall-Winter 2023 Pre-Collection, the Louis Vuitton Studio Prêt-à-Porter Homme illustrates this transition through the metaphor of the desert race. One of the most challenging competitions on the planet, the motorsport attracts an eccentric multi-cultural cast of daredevils, who gather to brave the unpredictable terrain of the barren wasteland and its mirages before reaching the luxuriance of the oasis. An extreme exercise in adaptation, desert racing serves as an image of the diverse characters, community spirit and collective creation that drive the Louis Vuitton Studio Prêt-à-Porter Homme. The collection is comprised of two chapters: the Desert and the Mirage.

“The Desert Race”

The desert race motif unfolds in a complete wardrobe adaptable to urban and recreational dress codes. Tailoring and technical pieces created in lightweight, water-proof ripstop nylon set an energetic but elegant tone for the collection: zip-adorned trousers and tops transform into shorts and short-sleeved shirts with hoods that can be hidden or exposed according to occasion. The archetypes of outerwear undergo adaptation in form and fabrication: the saharienne takes centre stage styled over cocktail pyjamas with a grid logo print that evokes check; a bomber jacket morphs with a varsity jacket and manifests in beige leather with logos; a motorcycle jacket marries a souvenir jacket in fleece and leather; and a logo-embellished sponsor jacket gets sponsored by Louis Vuitton.

The Maison’s signatures are treated with figurative desert techniques. Embossed on a suede shirt, the monogram resembles sand. A sand-strewn LV logo is emblazoned across silk and poplin shirts. On denim, the monogram appears discoloured by the scorching desert sun. Tailored jackets, bombers, hoodies and knitwear are printed with a trompe l’oeil crumbled paper motif evoking an aerial view of sand dunes. And the SpeakerMan – first featured as a look in the Louis Vuitton Men’s Show in June 2023 – transforms into a new animated mascot for the collection interpreted in a jacquard blouson and as a print on silk-blend shirts.

Shoes adapt to the eccentricity of the desert race wardrobe in a new version of the Sk8te encrusted with crystal and trimmed with distressed denim, and in a creeper-cut interpretation of the moulure-adorned Le Baroque. The Shark clog, the XL trainer, and the Tatic sneaker all appear in new colourways. Bags feature a new Spotlight motif in which the Louis Vuitton flower monogram is seen through a kaleidoscopic broken-down colour spectrum rendered across sporty shapes including a new Meteor travel bag, a new Comet backpack, and a new Comet messenger as well as small leather goods and logo-buckle belts. Jewellery manifests in pop colours and includes stackable logo rings as well as palladium and crystal charm necklaces and bracelets with the flower logo. Finally, the lightweight LV 4Motion sunglasses with adjustable technical elements appear with mirrored blue lenses.

A new pointillisme monogram – imitating the Impressionist painting technique – gives the illusion of underwater movement. It appears as a print on crêpe silk-blend shorts and shirts, in knitwear, in a jacquard bomber and a generational suit in discharged denim. Similar motifs abound in a sequined oversized tank top adorned with an algae-inspired logo, in a shirt and a cargo shirt in indigo denim feature a debossed monogram that evokes the erosion of water, and in shirts adorned with wet-look transparent print details.

Styled over a matching poplin shirt and swim shorts, a satin jacket is flocked with three-dimensional underwater motifs and logos, and embellished with liquid-effect sequins. As an alternative to seersucker, a jacquard has been adapted into superlight form and employed in a khaki shorts-suit as well as in shirts and shorts with mini monogram.

Shoes interpret life by the sea: the Oberkampf combat boot resurfaces with black embossed monogram in nubuck, the Shark clog appears in navy; the XL sneaker features in blue or orange with new lace charms; and the LV Trainer is reimagined in summery stripy canvas in pink, beige or blue inspired by the lining of antique Louis Vuitton trunks. A derby in glazed leather adapts the properties of a sneaker with technical squishy lining, a padded tongue, and a rubber sole.

The Mirage chapter debuts two new bag motifs: the Aqua Garden is an underwater-effect monogram printed on canvas and varnished with water-drop embellishment, which appears in crystal blue or abyss blue in a Keepall 50, 35 and 25, a Mini Soft Trunk, a Christopher backpack, and a Horizon trolley; the Washed Denim is a relief monogram evocative of sun and water erosion debossed on denim bags including a Keepall and a Montsouris backpack. Jewellery imitates marble in chain necklaces, bracelets and bolo rope ties, while accessories reflect the spirit of summer in denim bucket hats, crochet beanies, beach towels and toweling cushions.

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