The ANTONIO MARRAS FW23/24 COLLECTION stays true to the designer’s DNA. The house is always theatrical or finds a fable, period or muse from some magical place. For Fall, there is a little Spanish, a tiny Arab, and a petite Latina inspiration. Once upon a time, there was a girl named Grazia, the muse and story teller.
ANTONIO MARRAS FW2324 Runway Report
Like Grazia, the collection is a Matisse of materials, fabrics, embroideries, shapes, prints and patterns. To use it seemed like a homage to Vivienne Westwood, too, with inlaid upholstery jacquards. Tartan and flocked tulle, sequins and mats, embossed jersey, fake fur, matelassé and flowers. Perforated pannè velvet and iridescent cloths, needle-punched wool embedded in the fabric. Prints of cascading leaves, large wandering Dering roses, geometric patterns and portrait photos of man’s best friend. Worsted sweaters with jacquard motifs typical of Sardina, where Grazia is from.
These garments come to life with the Indian textile tradition, enveloping cashmere knits and rediscovered knits, cut and reconstructed, fitted with macramé embroidery, lace and pleats. Jacquard fil coupè, silk twill and sweatshirts. Trench coats, bomber jackets, parkas, and men’s tailored jackets retrieved from a previous life refurbished with inlays of haute couture materials such as damasks and brocades and then suddenly combined with the men’s checks used in gamekeeper’s jackets.
Milan Fashion Week
Streetwear motifs and gran soirèe motifs. A little cream and colours of the woods but lots of black and black and suddenly a passionate red. We call it post-pandemic attire. Fashion wants to dream and dress like dandies or an urban social butterfly. This house seeks to tap into Italian Fashion’s essence and highlight its authentic roots.
What do you think of the collection?
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Images: ANTONIO MARRAS