One of SS20 Paris fashion weeks biggest trends was the versatile women, but which design house go it right. Y/PROJECT SS20 collection had high points a low points. The design house has grown to a powerhouse lable to watch. Even the attendees this season was an odd mix of celebrity admires. The collection had and something for the video vixen, the artsy type, career women, and the goddess in the Y/PROJECT SS20 collection.
Y/PROJECT SS20 Femme Fatal
Bending and Distorting what the Y/Project women want was the key theme. This is what Y/PROJECT’s Glenn Martens does when it comes to offering his vision of fashion and art. From the mutant Strauss soundtrack to the upside-down looks he sends down the runway, the Y/PROJECT FEMME SS20 show is a pure manifesto of what the brand stands for: versatility as a means of individual expression.
Y/PROJECT SS20 Femme Fatal
A woman who wears a classic-not-so-classic cardigan/skirt combination with a gold chain bag at day, and a revealing split dress at night. Shows you do not have to reveal it all to be sexy. Many times covering it all up makes you look more classy.
We see in the collection transmuted historical references anchor the collection in eclectic artistic landscapes: the dramatic gowns, now a much anticipated moment every season, seem to come straight out of the Middle Age or the Tudor era. Bavarian dirndl corsets are enhanced with effusions of taffeta concealing generous cleavages. The characteristic optimism and profusion of the Belle Epoque run through the collection.
At times though I felt the Glenn Martens got lost in what he was attempting to translate on the runway. The referencing was there but the choice of fabrics could have been better. I feel a lot of designers are catering to a clientele that cannot afford their clothes.
Layered tulle suits from last season are continued as dresses and ensemble where the layers of fabric create patches of colours and draw a moving silhouette.
Lace is taken away from its romantic connotation and is the object of textile experimentation this season: sewn on the inside of tulle tops, intricate tulle and lace trimmings create visual effects when in motion. Tailoring is also a strong storyline of the collection, from spencer jackets to pop-up blazer dresses, from pinstripe tulle-covered suits to twisted fitted coat.
Regarding accessories, the Linda Farrow collaboration is completed by a new model of sunglasses this season. The trapeze Doctor bag is proposed in a smaller day-to-day version (contrasting with its extra-long equivalent), and the bowling bag unveiled during the men’s collection is now equipped with silver and gold chains. New spiral heart-shaped earrings are introduced, as well as a new generation of broche that can be hung on the buttonhole of a blazer. A sleek pair of denim boots with a Japanese-inspired pointy toe extend the brand’s shoe line one step further.
The collection was okay. I did not feel that there were any wow moments like in the past. The house is attempting to move away from sending street style stars down the runway. Now only sending accessories that are worthy. I am wondering if the designer is losing the touch he is known for.