The Pyer Moss Spring-Summer 2020 NYFW made me think to imagine if Saturday Night Fever or the God Farther had an all-black cast. Kerby Jean-Raymond went digging in the crates to pay homage to Blaxploitation and Rock and Roll for his latest collection. The collection took us through the era of Rock and Roll from the eyes of black people. With a little gangsta lean, throwbacks to the birth of hip hop and Harlem Nights.
After a Hiatus, last season, Kerby Jean-Raymond was ready for his come back. Shortly after winning the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund award Guess Who’s Back? Staying loyal to is a dedication to celebrate black and brown culture in America. The designer took us back to Brooklyn.
The designer had is name in lights with a cue as if waiting to get picked back in the day at a downtown Manhattan night club. Where it all deepened on who you knew at the door or how fly you looked. This was the atmosphere at the venue for the show —a combination of fashion editors, celebrities, bloggers and fans who were lucky enough to score one of 500 free tickets.
The Pyer Moss Spring-Summer 2020 Brings Us to Church
The designer defiantly has fans and The Pyer Moss Spring-Summer 2020 collection catered to the audience. It was Bridge and Tunnel crowd and cool. With enough space in the venue to allow for 3,000 people to attend. The line was around the block in Flatbush Brooklyn, who got all these people here. Pyer Moss.
The third and final chapter in the Pyer Moss trilogy
The Pyer Moss Spring-Summer 2020 runway collection was Entitled: Sister, the third and final chapter in the Pyer Moss trilogy. It paid homage to Sister Rosetta Tharpe, A singer-songwriter who rose to popularity in the 1930s and ’40s. Tharpe is considered to be the godmother of rock and roll. Although the songstress’s legacy has been almost but erased in music history.
“I think relatively few people know that the sound of rock and roll was invented by a queer black woman in a church,” said Kerby Jean-Raymond backstage, moments after the show. “I wanted to explore what that aesthetic might have looked like if her story would have been told.”
Pyer Moss Spring-Summer 2020 NYFW Blaxploitation
The inspiration for the collection is so deep on many levels. The church as always been heaven or hell for talent black people but also a paradise for gay talent. Not only being places of worship, but churches have also long served as safe spaces for black communities across America. Yet, the club life & the dancefloor is where we reign supreme and can indeed be ourselves.
From Rock and Roll to deep house record, DJ’s have used the medium to spread the gospel of black culture. The designer played DJ and took a page from this history book. By inviting Casey Gerald, who is known for his incisive social commentary, to give the sermon that opened the show reminding us it is almost election time. Vote or move to Canada was the snap of the cool cats.
The inspiration for the collection is so deep on many levels. The church has always been heaven or hello for talent black people but also a paradise for gay talent. Not only being places of worship, but churches have also long served as safe spaces for black communities across America. Yet, the club life & the dancefloor is where we reign supreme and can indeed be ourselves.
From Rock and Roll to deep house record, DJ’s have used the medium to spread the gospel of black culture. The designer played DH and took a page from this history book. By inviting Casey Gerald, who is known for his incisive social commentary, to give the sermon that opened the show reminding us it is almost election time. Vote or move to Canada was the snap of the cool cats.
“Four hundred years have passed since they brought our people to this land . . . and I’ve come here to say you can’t hurt us no more,” said Gerald about the anniversary of slavery in America. “They knew that no matter how their master treated them, no matter how the world treated them, they had freedom on the inside that the world could not take away . . . . And we are here tonight to claim our wings.”
What Rock Looked Like from the Black Population
Preach, another trend we see kicking off for 2020 the rise of the Black and Brown designers. Luxury brands are leading the way and finally taping into the current Blaxploitation of Fashion. After the sermon, the beat of the drum and the gospel came alive.
The band and so-called Pyer Moss Tabernacle Drip Choir Drench in the Blood took centre stage. Buoyed by their 70-plus ethereal voices, Jean-Raymond set forth his vision for rock-star style. As the first model bounded down the runway to the sound of Anita Baker’s “Sweet Love,” sporting rhinestone-studded wide-leg pants, a bolero jacket, and a halolike Afro, the staid rocker archetype. The looks wanted you to raise your hands and sing the hook with Anita.
Desented to be worn by todays black and brown music crowed. There were obvious nods to Tharpe’s musicianship and personal style when she was alive. The shape of her guitar was threaded through the curvy lapels of satin overcoats, and the most literal reference was a novelty guitar-shaped handbag.
He played homage to her style with: a slightly monastic scarlet silk tunic layered over matching satin pants, strut down the runway. Raymond was inspired by more than one songstress, we could see Lauryn Hill, Missy Elliott and Erykah Badu. In this trilogy, he brought back Sean John era.
The designer continues to use the runway as a way to examine Black political culture by incorporating art into his collections. Raymond collaborated with artist Richard Phillips, who recently made the news. He was finally exonerated after spending 45 years in prison for a crime he didn’t commit.
His brightly coloured figurative paintings lent a sense of exuberance to techy black track tops and oversize T-shirt dresses. Sean John was on the list of collaborators this season, as well, the last in a trio of black legacy brands Jean-Raymond has worked.
With his new role as artistic director at Reebok, Jean-Raymond is adds another hat to his collection. The clothing he showed as part of an ongoing collaboration with the sportswear label was his most confident capsule yet. Known as Reebok Studies, the new division he will oversee will act as an incubator for young talent, and it affords him the power to raise up a new generation of designers.
“I remember when Puffy won the CFDA award,” said Jean-Raymond, who was working at a sneaker shop just blocks from Kings Theater at the time. “As a kid, I never thought that I could get into fashion if I didn’t learn to rap first.” These days he doesn’t second-guess himself, nor should he. He’s living proof that marching to the beat of your own drummer pays off.
Welcome back Kerby Jean-Raymond with Re- Blaxploitation of Black Culture.