Paris Haute Couture Day One Style Editor Review
For me Paris Haute Couture FALL-WINTER 17 / 18 Day One was all about the Newbies to the calendar and the risk takers. I am different from other influencers. It is not about me and my outfits. It is about the designers and the art form that is Haute Couture. Which many seem to forget is an art form and takes months to pull off.
RVDK Ronald Van Der Kemp
First up is RVDK Ronald Van Der Kemp show where he displayed 33 mouth dropping looks. For the new generation of Haute Couture clients, like Solange Knowles, Zendaya, and the Hadid’s. The design displayed something for boys, girls and cowboys.
What he does with denim is incredible, he brought the 80’s neon colors to the runway with sassy style. All I could think of was which video vixen or Instagram model would rock it best.
Van Der Kemp made high waisted pants in prints, gowns with a futuristic edge. The designer kept to his DNA of plaid and rock roll pieces. That every it girl will want wear to the party instead of a piece of Balmain or YSL. If Bad Girl RiRi’s stylist does not book a few pieces, they are not doing their job.
The Dutch designer Ronald van der Kemp and his label RVDK set the stage for the rest of day one. There’s something appropriate about Van der Kemp kicking off the proceedings this season for a couple of very good reasons. For one thing, his show underscores the arrival in Paris of several non-French and non-couture designers, what with Rodarte and Proenza Schouler on the schedule hours later the very same day.
The Americans are coming, and I wonder if the Presidential election had anything to do with many American designers jumping ship this season. The Paris calendar had a few American designers this season and Proenza Schouler kicked it off on day one with banging artful pieces. It was their time to shine in a way you can only do in Paris. Finally we were able to see what the house is really made of. With not thread or detail unturned.
‘We are so excited – the whole thing of the history of Paris and couture, the work of artisans,’ said Jack McCollough, while co-designer Lazaro Hernandez said that the collection was still intended as ready-to-wear for spring/summer 2018.
This Proenza Schouler show was held around the cloisters of an ancient lycée with flashes of scarlet or black and white flat flower patterns popping up among the old stone work. The atmospehere was for the noble and the poetic at heart. Keeping to the DNA of the brand by showing Black, white, little color and a flower pattern. The garments keep off with out a hitch. As editors, buyers and clients holding their breath after every look. As well as taking notes, on which not so Haute Couture accessories to buy.
Xuan brought the big guns out to throw their hats in the ring for Haute Couture literally. We are living for the hats and all the frills. What a why to make an impression.
Dutch-Vietnamese designer Xuan-Thu Nguyen chose a white, uncluttered space for her second show as a guest member of the couture calendar. Using the silk ruffles and asymmetry emblematic of her spring collection, Nguyen designed pieces she says reflect her own internal contradictions.
The contrasts came in all forms. A short jacket decorated with small leather flowers, shiny, metallic pink on one side and matte gray on the other, could almost be taken for a fur coat.
Ruffles spilled off the arm of one model, and jutted out from the front of a pair of pencil-thin trousers on another.
I had to save the best for last. To be an American in Paris when Rodarte finally jumps the pond. To me they are the only American designers doing Haute Couture from the get go. They should have been showing in Paris ages ago.
Rodarte’s Mulleavy sisters showcased a must-see collection for the first time in the French capital. With their debut show came a florally-flushed collection that drew its inspiration from a stylised film – Robert Altman’s 3 Women – and was translated into abstract cuts, flowy silhouettes and feminine florals, complete in a soft colour palette and red of course for sexy and sultry looks. What they do with lace, would drive any man crazy.
With flurries of flowers filling a green garden surrounded by an ancient abbey, the Rodarte runway had a John Galliano feel for Dior back when he was the bomb.
They treated us to a rosy romance with a touch of the dark side seemed a perfect fit for the Los Angeles duo who never appeared quite at home in New York. Let’s hope this is the beginning of a Paris residency for the sisters, who made the first day memorable for this fan girl of the brand.
Photo Credit: Each House PR Agency