As of late London, fashion week can be a hit or miss. Many editors giving it a miss or sending the assistants. Until now we thought London might make a come back because of Men’s fashion week and thirst for street wear. Now could a London fashion week be going through a renaissance because of a gender-neutral designer like Art School for AW19?
Gender Neutral LFW
When you get the golden ticket for the show that may change the game in London you get up at 8 and call ViaVan to make it to the show at 9:00 AM. There is always time for some tea and drama on a Saturday morning. Design duo Eden Loweth and Tom Barratt’s show marked ‘ Volume Two’ of their design birthright.
VIEW THE FULL ART SCHOOL AW19 COLLECTION BELOW
For their debut standalone London Fashion Week Men’s show, Art School’s dynamic duo Eden Loweth and Tom Barratt’s cohort of models that put the ‘I’ in Inclusive. They cast every flavour under the rainbow, trans and non-binary faces and friends of the designers. A celebration of queerness and inclusivity.
Each look that came down the runway drew emphasis towards the bodily form: whether cisgendered, trans or non-binary, the designs and cuts mirrored the fluidity of the body of whom it was worn on. Tailored jackets formed both boxy and sculpted silhouettes.
One particular design was coined by the duo as the “dagger dress”, and it was instantly apparent why. Created with either black silk or decadent pink jacquard, the dress was cut on the bias, rushed slightly at the waist, warping and welting the fabric to fall diagonally across the body until coming to a sharp, slanted hemline jutting out at the knees. I was seeing Alexander McQueen has the inspiration.
The collection showcased work with a previous collaborator, Gina Shoes, producing cobalt blue laced stiletto boots and heels lined with acid pink feathers. The collection also featured a collaboration with queer artist Dominic Myatt, who created the jewellery. Also featuring, hair sculptures encompassed found articles interwoven with human hair.
Ideal ensembles to Bring Back Vogueing to queer safe spaces across London, it showed what was close to Loweth and Barratt’s hearts. Meanwhile, the odd flash of neon pink or lurid green made a nod to the 80s.
The expressive choreography by collaborator Holly Blakey referenced Nick Knight’s iconic image, Blade of Light (2004). Now everyone lets Art School, Vogue and Twirl.