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Istituto Marangoni London Unveils “Under the Light” Fashion Show

Based in Shoreditch, the renowned Fashion and Design School –  Istituto Marangoni London, hosted the exclusive event, welcoming fashion professionals, including press and industry experts to the Bankside Vaults, showcasing the works of its 10 best Fashion Design graduates. Taking inspiration from the concept of light as a symbol of new beginnings, the 10 collections showcased in a hybrid performance, merging a traditional catwalk with a static presentation. The visionary use of light, along with the minimalist set-up of the venue and its fascinating vaults, create a dreamlike atmosphere enhancing the colours, details and silhouettes of the School’s 10 best Womenswear collections.

Eleonora Cellino, 21, is an Italian Fashion Design graduate at Istituto Marangoni London. Fashion to her is empowerment, a way to express oneself and assert confidence, power and personality. Her collection is inspired by indigenous Amazigh women strive for freedom from oppression and equal rights, against Islamists and Arab elites in Morocco.  The concept of this collection is the realisation and the identity of these women from their traditional garments to the transformation and survival of their very own culture in an elitist society and a post-colonial mindset. It is characterised by a layering of very thin fabrics that create a “vedo non vedo” effect – alluding to the idea of being simultaneously hidden and visible.  A play on the dance of what it means to be a woman – to be both in and of full view, and also, deeply buried beneath layers of complexity and intrigue.  The silhouettes are cocooning and over exaggerated as if a protective coat was keeping the layers underneath intact and untouched.

 Vittoria Bergallo. 21, spent her childhood in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, and most of her teenage years in London. From an early age, she admired how her mother and grandmother expressed themselves through fashion and decided to experiment with fashion herself. For her graduate collection, she was inspired by not only the strong women in her family but also by the places that marked her identity.  She looked at Brazilian vintage sports uniforms and at the British classic tailoring and knitwear. By fusing these elements, she created Duolocal, a collection composed of functional, polished and sporty garments.

Passionate about fashion since she was a child, Ilona Hars, 24, is a Fashion Design graduate at Istituto Marangoni London. Born and raised in Norway, she has always had a close relationship with crafting thanks to her grandparents and got her first sewing machine at the age of 8. In 2014 she came to the UK to start her studies at Istituto Marangoni, which she chose for the great focus on pattern cutting technique as well as the strong bond with the industry.  Her graduate collection is inspired by the colour, shapes and texture of Norwegian nature, which are mixed with details and silhouettes of vintage skiwear from the 1930’s – 40’s.  Focusing on the contrast between luxury fabrics and sporty trimmings, her love for craft and details shows through the whole collection.

Born in China then raised in the UK, Amie Ellis (22) uses the experience to pave her unique designs. She decided to study fashion design at Istituto Marangoni London after being in charge of the costume production for Shakespeare’s “A Winter’s Tale” when she was studying at college.  She has been hooked to the world of colour and textile, and the excitement this industry has to offer ever since. Amie’s graduate collection is inspired by the pollution issues of her hometown, Beijing.  Using both Western and Oriental artisan techniques in ink-drawing and pattern making, she paints a picture of the city that is modern Beijing. The graduate is passionate about sustainable methods and aims to send a message about environmental concerns through the language of fashion.

Toe Shwe Zin Myint, 22 is a Fashion Design Graduate from Istituto Marangoni London. Coming all the way from Myanmar, her awareness of the lack of Burmese international fashion designers inspired her to start her Foundation Studies at Istituto Marangoni in 2015, then proceeding onto her BA. Her style is minimalistic with soft contrasting colours, while materials and silhouettes work together to create an odd elegance. Myint’s Graduate Collection, Engulfed AW19, is inspired by positive impacts humans are rehabilitating for marine life such as manmade prosthetics and orthotics. Marine life inspires soft silhouettes and pleats. The ridged yet clean form-fitting silhouette is influenced from how prosthetics mimics the body line. In this collection soft elegance meets structure, oversize and motion constricted elements celebrate the relationship between artificial alternatives and nature.

Siena Hutchinson is a 21 year old Fashion Design student at Istituto Marangoni London. After spending a majority of her childhood in Switzerland, in 2014 she moved to London to pursue her dream of studying fashion design and to begin her design career in one of the world’s fashion capitals.  Her graduate collection fuses her inspiration from sound waves with sportswear, creating an elegant yet athletic look. The layering of fabric creates movement in the garments, while the bindings, piping and vinyl stripes accentuate shapes and emphasise structure. The colours used throughout her collection are light and bright, enhancing the energy created through the shapes and structures of the garments. The bold prints are directly inspired by soundwave lifework and give strength to her collection.

Kritika Singh, 23, is a Fashion Design Womenswear graduate at Istituto Marangoni London. Born in Jamshedpur, India, she started her fashion design studies 4 years ago. Her collection, called “Distorted Perceptions”, takes inspiration from the reflections of distorted mirrors. Thanks to the use of draping and pleating techniques, this graduate collection is characterised by exaggerated but elegant silhouettes. The colour palette ranges from deep burgundies to dark emerald greens to shades of grey, all colours which accentuate the pleats and draping of her garments. The distorted and deconstructed elements of Kritika’s collection were created to clash with the traditional canons of perfected beauty.

Nynne Kunde, 25, is a Fashion Design Womenswear graduate at Istituto Marangoni London. Born in the suburbs just outside Copenhagen, she has always been interested and passionate about the design and art world. To create her collection, characterized by voluminous silhouettes and detailed shoulder constructions, she has explored the symbolism around power dressing from the 1940s, reflecting on its meaning and use for the modern woman in today’s society. Fabrics such as nylon, silks, leather, along with digitalised prints and a graphic colour palette support the “modern power glam” feel of the collection. Soft and loose silhouettes create a contrast with the voluminous and slightly oversized cuts, to go beyond the traditional idea of statement dressing. Sculptural and industrial elements are also present in the accessories – jewellery and bags – specially designed to enrich the collection.

Viola Menchini, 23, is an Italian Fashion Design graduate at Istituto Marangoni in London. She has always been fascinated by historical garments and, after studying arts and architecture in her hometown in Tuscany, she decided to move to London to study fashion design, attracted and stimulated by the creativity and freedom of this cosmopolitan city. To create her graduate collection, entitled “L’amor perduto”, Viola took inspiration from the feeling of loneliness and today’s love relationships in a context where, due to long working hours, the strive for success and dating apps, real love seems just an old, blurry dream. Pink, red, white and black are the main colours of her collection, which is inspired by Karla Black’s pink sculptures made from cosmetics and toiletries, and by the photographer Juno Calypso, whose projects “Joice” and “The Honeymoon”, express the loneliness and self-obsession of the woman in today’s society and love relationships. Her silhouettes take inspiration from the 50’s and the clash between appearance and real life of families and couples. Arrow-shaped oversized patch pockets and collars are inspired from Tinder’s “swipe right” gesture, while drapes represent the fast flow of time.  Big scale flower prints and lace patterns in flocking and padded petal shaped details represent the solitary rose, symbol of love and passion, in contrast with the shiny, semi-transparent and stiff fabrics – such as Gazar organzas, duchess satins, sateen/poly cotton and shiny gabardine wools – which give a message of illusion, fragility, isolation and fakeness.

Ellen Ophelia, 21, is a Fashion Design graduate at Istituto Marangoni London. Born and raised in Indonesia, she has always been keen to study art and design and, at the age of 17, she decided to move to the UK to pursue a career in fashion. Her graduate collection is a diary of a broken girl looking for “hope”, and contrasts with the visual essence of both restriction and freedom coming from the feeling of depression. Her inspiration comes from dancers such as Martha Graham and Pina Bausch, as well as from papers as a way to speak about freedom, reformation, and self-expression.  The Shakespeare quotes used throughout the collection, like “Give sorrow words, the grief that does not speak knits up the overwrought heart and bids it break” deliver a message to the wearer as well as the audience to speak up their mind and sadness, as it will only break them if they keep it hidden. The deconstructed feel and the embroideries of the garments are a further way of embodying her emotions in a collection that is fragile and strong at the same time.

About the author

Contributing fashion writer for Style Cartel

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