For StyleCartel Fashion week is not only about big brands and runway shows. Our main aim is to scout for new emerging talent. We took a break from the runway and headed over to Le Marais for a Pop Up hosted by the MORE DASH AGENCY, with their presentation of THE BEST DESIGNERS FROM UKRAINE AND EASTERN EUROPE in one place, right in the heart of Paris near Saint Paul. We were amazed at all the talent in one room. These emerging designers mixed, art, music and fashion into collections that are pieces of wearable art.
For the collective this Falll-Winter 15-16 season in Paris marked the second most successful season at Paris Fashion Week, where More Dash Agency promoted new generation of Eastern Designers to international buyers and press. In September 2014, More Dash Agency first brought Ukrainian designers to show their new collections in Paris. This season More Dash Agency pushed the boundaries and brought new generation of talented designers not only from Ukraine, but also from Russia, Georgia and Kazakhstan. The designers from Gerogia really spoke to me. Each designer had their own esthetic and creativeness about them.
Fashion Friday with MORE DASH AGENCY
Daria Shapovalova the ex- runway model and street style maven is the woman responsible for More Dash. Daria Shapovalova is the, founder and creative director of Mercedes-Benz Kiev Fashion Days and Natalia Modenova MBKFD’s CEO, and internationally represents the best Ukrainian, Eastern European and Central Asian brands, providing worldwide exposure to press and buyers within the framework of carefully planned catwalk and showroom schedule. In a continuous effort to grow these established and upcoming brands, More Dash Agency strives for worldwide exposure for More Dash designers.
The More Dash Showroom was organized in the partnership with Vogue Italia. More Dash Agency presented the latest collections by Ukrainian designers Anna K, Anton Belinskiy, Anna October, BEKh, DMDV, Ksenia Schainder, Omelya, designers from Georgia Anouki, N-DUO, Lalo Cardigans, De Guise brand from Kazakhstan and Alisa Kuzembaeva from Russia.
On the 10th of March Daria Shapovalova and Natalia Modenova hosted a Cocktail Reception in More Dash Showroom to showcase the designers totoday’s top fashion press and insiders. New Fall – Winter 15 collections were appreciated by Sara Maino – senior fashion editor of Vogue Italia, Gianluca Cantaro – L’Officiel Editor-in-Chief, Karina Dobrotvorskaya – President & Editorial Director of Brand Development at Condé Nast International, Tim Blanks – editor-at-large for Style.com, Christina Binkley – Wall Street Journal fashion journalist and Valery Steele – fashion historian and of course StyleCartel was there too. We continue to support young designers and found a plethora of new talent.
About the Designers
Designed by 19-year-old Anna K, the brand is carried by over 35 outlets worldwide, including Colette (France), Lane Crawford (China), Isetan (Japan) and Luisa Via Roma (Italy). Anna’s new Autumn-Winter collection was inspired by her favorite fairy tale, he Little Match Girl, and is centered around girly bows, sparkly crystals, stickers and Anna K’s trademark statement prints.
Anton creates fashion-forward, but wearable clothes for girls with personality. Always drawing from sportswear, street wear and postmodern culture, this season Anton was inspired by works of contemporary Ukrainian artist Vova Vorotniov. Vorotniov’s hit slogan “Poor but cool “is re-imagined in the new collection that combines strong silhouettes with color-blocked primes and creative typography.
Anna October is a womenswear designer creating garments with strong feminine silhouettes and attention to high quality fabrics. Modern grace and joy are key words to Anna October aesthetics. Anna October is known for it’s feminine style and precisely tailored silhouettes in an exceptional quality.
DMDV was founded by Ukrainian designer Olga Demidova in 2014. Her collections, defined by easy-to-wear cuts and high-tech materials are aimed at urban dwellers, combining functional style with a hint of femininity. FW 15 Collections was inspired by optical illusions and game of graphic elements, which embodied in the prints on garments.
A well-known Ukrainian fashion designer Ksenia Marchenko teamed up Anton Schnaider, a graphic designer from Moscow, in 2011. At Ksenia Schnaider, the duo aims to create “silent”
clothing that reflects the “right here and right now” with a modest beauty that does not flirt withthe past or predict the future. The brand produces womenswear, menswear and unisex garments. Among its devotees is surprisingly Lady Gaga, who chose a Ksenia Schnaider hat for the cover of her “Dope” EP. FW 15 – 16 collections is re-thinking uniform and worker’s clothes.
Designed by Kostya Omelya, one of Ukraine’s rising talents, OMELYA produces 4 collections of high-fashion apparel for women per year. The Autumn-Winter 15-16 is focused on sportswear functionality and basic ideas of constructivism. Kostya Omelya creates cutting-edge, but comfortable clothes using straight lines and strong silhouettes. His collections are stocked by Luisa Via Roma and other retailers in Italy, USA and the Middle East.
Yulia Yefimtchuk +
Her F/W 15 – 16 collections was inspired by Berlin Wall and Vrubel’s graffiti “Fraternal Kiss”with the slogan “My God, Help Me to Survive This Deadly Love!”. “Fraternal kiss” of Brezhnevand Honecker should push people think about the current relations between nations, and maybe our sincerity is a hidden lie? Bilingual printed graffiti reflects the connection of crushed regimes. And now we have a different pattern, where Leaders are gone, but the War remains. Fabric – printed cotton and black velvet, which underlines the geometry of the suit and makes brave silhouettes.
Alisa Kuzembaeva has an architectural and structured approach in her work. Each collection has it’s own principal that shapes entire vision and aesthetic. Being trained as an architect, her designs have a graphic core, combined with striking shapes. Impressive background helps Kuzembaeva create innovative and contemporary pieces. Her woman aspires for novelty; she is intellectual, curious and galvanic. Each collection has it’s own principal that shapes entire vision. Her graduate collection was featured by Vogue Italy in its special edition Vogue Talents.
ANOUKI presents ready-to-wear clothes, shoes and accessories. Brand’s main idea is to be “very own” for each customer, not to be cliché and understand what’s necessary for ladies in a specific moment. Whole team does it’s best to prove that it is possible to create something new and exciting even in Georgia, where fashion industry is just in the process of development. For new collection designer was inspired by purity of dandelions that embodied in unusual light colors and warm vibes for winter.
The only one brand from Kazakhstan showcased in More Dash Showroom presented their new FW 15 Collection. The purpose of the collection is to convey the basic idea of forms, graphic quality and crisp silhouettes of female figures, while as natural fabrics (cotton, felt, wool, cashmere) help to feel more than comfortable. Key color is black, has a unique ability to hide flaws and emphasize the dignity, the secondary colors will undoubtedly arise from the ground (gray,white). It is an architecture that brings minimalism and constructivism gave us start to create a new collection. The collection will be introduced to big public at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Almaty on 23-26 of March.
Women’s clothing brand N-DUO presented the debut collection with 2015 autumn / winter collection. Fashion journalist and stylist – Natuka Karkashadze and business lady – Nina Tsilosani, founded the brand. The young girls believe that the new project will be successful under the combined forces. In the collection of the 70s inspired by aesthetics, the woman character contrasting sides merge harmonious. Playful, slightly ironic and adventurous models are followed in the footsteps by sophisticated, feminine and slightly harsh accents.
Two creative designers Lalo and Nina Dolidze are founders of Georgian brand Lalo cardigans in 2012. The original hand woven creations became very popular among the celebrities and fashion people since they are both stylish and functional at the same time. The Lalo Cardigans design philosophy is based upon the belief that everyone possesses his or her own signature style.
Young brand from Kiev created by a professional musician and designer Anna Bondarenko. The DNA of the brand is the combination of classical music and geometrical design. The author’s fantasy jest is created under influence of the French composer and virtuoso pianist Camille Saint-Saëns’s “Aquarium” from “The Carnival of the Animals”. Provocative dramatically orange color on a distinctive for the brand black and white basis in combination with triangle geometry in every garment (fabric quilted with triangles, applique triangle fish, the shape of collars and pockets) emphasizes a playfully side of fashion.
Stay tuned for more from up close and personal stories on these emerging designers and this emerging market.
Photos provided by More Dash