Emerging Ukrainian designers have continuously captured the attention of worldwide press and we are all amazed at the diversity and dynamics presented by all the Ukrainian designers we have chance to encounter with. Dema Chayun and Auton Yakshyn established Chakshyn in 2015. Simple cuts with closely reality-related theme has been its signature. However, the latest collection 2017 fall/winter is rather a breakout moment for the brand.
2017 Fall/Winter Collection
Neon lights, military costumes, Japanese culture elements…these served as the first impressions when we went though Chakshyn latest catalogue. Exactly for this season, the duo designers retrieved themselves back to the fictional world to gain inspiration. The anti-utopian theme of ‘Blade runner’ motion picture by Ridley Scott and sci-fi manga ‘Ghost in the shell’ by Masamune Shirow helped designers visualize their inner ideas.
The legacy of Japanese culture inspired motifs portray an interwinding vibe of futuristic and classic oriental beauty. Sharp contrast with images of flowers against robots in rough accent. Deconstruction is experimented in this collection with knitwear block. Patchwork technique is to be seen everywhere in the tops and dresses. One of the statement pieces is the deconstructed hoodie with obi belts which has a bow on the back.
Outwear is definitely the spotlight of this collection. A voluminous trench and asymmetrical coat with a clearly marked waistline shape clean and feminine silhouettes. Inspired by Japanese military costume of V-VII century and biker uniform, Chakshyn women stride into fall and winter with strong profile. The exploration of duo designers into interaction of male and female costume never stops.
Classic elements of the brand, clingy skirts and silk slip dresses were given the idea of duality with a floral pattern and rough wool costume with an enlarged shoulder line. To keep the aesthetic vision of Chakshyn in chilling seasons, knitwear was made from caring weaves. Hand-crafted pieces also include denim, producing flares and midi skirts with zipper pleats. Away from the safe simple cuts of past seasons, designers are venturing out of comfort zone.
The philosophy behind Chakshyn’s every collection is not simple and plain to see on the mood board. There is more to tell. The main idea for 2017 Spring/Summer collection is to break the rules and expectations of fashion. Slogans ‘No Beauty Anymore’ and ‘No Seasons Anymore’ were printed on statement T-shirts. This Fall/Winter collection is a lookback to the past and a speculation towards future with a pair of pessimism glasses. In the world of nowadays, Dema Chayun and Auton Yakshyn are not the first to base collection on their worries.
The duo designers noted that the puffer coat with white Japanese floral prints was quite difficult to create. But the results, without doubt, are amazing and beautiful. It took courage for designers to take an adventure out of its habitual design path. Of course, being loyal to inner thoughts plus craftsmanship is the ultimate support for a brand to grow.
Picture Credits: More Dash Showrooms, Chakshyn press office