by Charlotte Smith



Luck is a racy lace lady tonight. Our DÉFILÉ DU JOUR| FRANCESCO SCOGNAMIGLIO SPRING/SUMMER 2015 on day one of Milan fashion week.  It was love on the rocks in all white lace pieces by designer FRANCESCO SCOGNAMIGLIO, one of the only designer to stick to what we come to Milan Fashion week for: sexy garments. It wasn’t all work and no play for FRANCESCO.   The cast of the modern day Aphrodite on a rock, dressed in pearly veils consisted of veteran cat walkers like Anna Ewers, Catherine McNeil, Daphne Groeneveld, Malaika Firth and Fei Fei Sun. With an all-star cast like that we know exactly who the FRANCESCO SCOGNAMIGLIO woman is. She is a feminine young woman, who is confident and a classic beauty with style. For Francesco Scognamiglio, women are, “Paladins of the 21st century, subtle guests in fabulous locales.”


For his Spring collection he pays tribute Madame Grés, the last “ Grand Dame” in the Olympus of the Haute-Couture Parisian, a woman who one day wants to wear a mini dress and the next a longer length without constraints. Ephebic silhouettes, light fabrics from silk habotai to double satin chiffon to hammered cotton. Almost the entire collection is in white, soft colors like the blue of the Naples sea, and we cannot forget how the peach tones turn into a metamorphosis of tropical flowers that decorate Bon-Ton dresses. Enhanced by embroideries woven on antique hand looms, with motifs of large leaves encrusted with crystals in silver armours, a collection that is strong, polite, aristocratic and modern. The show was styled by Margherita Moro who helps FRANCESCO bring his modern poetry to the runway with his Aphrodite on a Rock dream to life. With slick translucent fabric exposing what’s beneath. Barely there gauze elements are not for a shy women, but a confident woman who wants to show off what she has. There is nothing wrong with that as long as you do it with the style of an Italian Vixen. For the more tame female he cuts a mean pair of trousers, and his eveningwear was for the lovers of lingerie with his applications of lace; there were yards of sheer fabric at play here, embellished and sometimes not. Oh how so French Chic, but  with a twist of Italian sauciness.

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Photos by Rudy de Monteiro


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