Sunday 22 February 2015 was a cold and rainy day during London Fashion week, but we braved the day and kept to our schedule of shows and presentations. We made it to our rendez vous, with Wil Beedle, AllSaints’ Creative Director despite the typical London weather. We were invited to witness the launch of his Autumn 2015 collection and his ode to AllSaints’ in a form of a lover letter dedicated to East London Past, Present and Future. The collection consisted of something old, something new, something borrowed and affordable accessories dedicated to East London neighborhoods. To celebrate the brand as it enters its 21st year.
London Fashion Week Presentation
Nostalgia and romanticism dialogue with the endless possibilities of London’s future. It’s happening in cities across the globe; this accelerated sense of change surrounds us all. Wil Beedle, AllSaints’ Creative Director
After Wil walked us threw the collection it all made sense. It was like he was taking us on a Quantum Leap. The designer was taking us on a time warp trip with the collection. He knew his history and could explain in detail his references. He was very eloquent when talking about the latest collection and very proud of the direction he was taking ALLSAINTS to. We talked about art and where he felt London Fashion Week was going. Wil believes that London is on the come up again and it is the fashion city to watch again Wil was like a kid when talking about Fashoin and London’s part in it all..
The designer stays true the DNA of ALLSAINTS quality British clothing with a rich history. The silhouettes and textures of the collection mirror the old factories of the area, but are modernized by the new skyscraper developments that are referenced in the cuts of the garments. The collection is rougher and tougher then leather, like East London, but also has a girly side. An overall sense of discipline and formality is softened by moments of playful femininity: girly dresses feature powerful military epaulettes, while buttoned-up high necks, laced cuissardes and the controlled application of military knits exist alongside silk M65 jackets adorned with floral motifs. Much of the collection is belted with bridle leather creating a tension between ceremony and sexuality. The iconic AllSaints biker has been extended with paneled shearling and trimmed with bridle leather: one piece is oversized with severed sleeves; another is shrunken and belted.
For the MENSWEAR the collection sees a general amplification of scale, volume, texture and formality. The rigorous structure of tailored suits is broken by the introduction of oversized shearling MA-1 bomber jackets and reassembled biker jackets, reflecting the increased layering of the cityscape. Animal prints take the form of camouflage, a natural yoking of the rock n roll sensibilities of the military. Entering its 21st year provides the context for the brand to reflect upon its core masculine codes – leather, military and disheveled formality – and redefine them for today. The resulting collection becomes a uniform without uniformity. Ultimately, this is a collection that evokes both the brand and the city’s past while defining their present and future. The collection speaks to today’s millennial fashion conscious person who likes style and garments and accessories synompus with the brand, that are built to last and won’t break your budget.