Rick Owens S/S 10

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Fashion is by essence, perpetual reinvention. Rick Owens, long cast as the master of covetable gothiness, has gone and reinvented his unique style in a more grown-up, restrained and altogether less anguished way.

His influence was first felt this week at the Gareth Pugh show, where the usual moody blackness was finally alleviated with grey. Under his apt tutelage, Pugh showed that he too was growing as a designer. Yet, I can’t help but prefer Owens’ collection.

Touted on many lips, the “Grey is the new black” was indeed the motto of the show, with grey being declined in many textures, from butter-soft leather to symetrical pieces. On the runway, his models were gorgeous aliens dressed in structured pieces. Not a pop of colour distracts the eye from the lines of his work.

My favourite? The open-toed slouchy boot, which has been seen before but never so gorgeously edgy.

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